Dyes in World War I

When the US entered the war on the Allied side in April 1917, anti-German feeling was rampant.  Many companies owned or managed by men with German-sounding names abruptly changed their names or merged with other firms under new names, to avoid harassment or discrimination. Among these was National Aniline & Chemical Co., of Buffalo, NY, which was formed in 1917 from the merger of Schoellkopf Aniline and Chemical of Buffalo, NY, Beckers Aniline and Chemical of Brooklyn, and the Benzol Products Company. National Aniline, and other American dye companies—all of whom produced pharmaceuticals and other chemicals as well as dyestuffs—received a gift from the US government in November 1917, when Congress passed the Trading with the Enemy Act. This allowed American companies producing goods that contributed to the war effort to confiscate enemy-owned patents and use the technology in their own manufacturing. Through what has been called “compulsory licensing,” the dye shortage ceased.

The first synthetic dye, aniline purple (also called Perkin’s Mauve) derived from coal tar, was discovered in England by then 18-year old chemist William Henry Perkin in the spring of 1856. Perkin was trying to synthesize quinine, the anti-malaria drug. British and German chemists competed through the late nineteenth century to create new dyes, extending the color range and making dyes that would not fade or run when exposed to light or water. True to its roots in the search to make quinine, dye chemistry and pharmaceutical chemistry went hand in hand. By the early years of the twentieth century, German firms such as I.G. Farben and BASF had become the leaders in both fields.

In March 1919 Germany offered dyestuffs as one of the products it could export to both Britain and the US in payment for the import of foodstuffs into Germany, through the “Brussels Agreement.” Textile manufacturers, and others who relied on German dyes, were in favor of this agreement. American dye manufacturers opposed it, asking instead for import tariffs on German dyes to encourage American industry to use American-made dyestuffs.

Sussex Print Works, 1915. Silk dress goods printed in black on white with a variation (S-225) of an "ant and swallow" design taken from the family crest of the Bolling family in England, in honor of the marriage of President Woodrow Wilson and Edith Bolling Galt.
Description
Sussex Print Works, 1915. Silk dress goods printed in black on white with a variation (S-225) of an "ant and swallow" design taken from the family crest of the Bolling family in England, in honor of the marriage of President Woodrow Wilson and Edith Bolling Galt. This variation has closely spaced black stripes with rows of coin dots in a half drop repeat - black ants in white circles and white birds in black circles.The use of strict black and white reflects the fact that color dyes were scarce due to the blockade of Germany by British ships during WWI. German firms were the primary holders of dye and colorant patents, , and the blockade created a critical shortage of dyestuffs in the still-neutral United States in 1915-1916. When the US entered the war in 1917, on the British side, the German dye patents were seized and turned over to American manufacturers.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1915
referenced
Wilson, Edith Bolling Galt
maker
Sussex Print Works
ID Number
TE.T02958
accession number
59282
catalog number
T02958.000
Sussex Print Works, 1915. Silk dress goods printed in black on white with a variation (S-227) of an "ant and swallow" design taken from the Bolling family crest in England, in honor of the marriage of President Woodrow Wilson and Edith Bolling Galt in December 1915.
Description
Sussex Print Works, 1915. Silk dress goods printed in black on white with a variation (S-227) of an "ant and swallow" design taken from the Bolling family crest in England, in honor of the marriage of President Woodrow Wilson and Edith Bolling Galt in December 1915. This variation has widely spaced black stripes with superimposed black coin dots holding white birds, with individual ant motifs in columns between the stripes. The use of strict black and white reflects the fact that color dyes were scarce due to the blockade of Germany by British ships during WWI. German firms were the primary holders of dye and colorant patents, , and the blockade created a critical shortage of dyestuffs in the still-neutral United States in 1915-1916. When the US entered the war in 1917, on the British side, the German dye patents were seized and turned over to American manufacturers.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1915
referenced
Wilson, Edith Bolling Galt
maker
Sussex Print Works
ID Number
TE.T02959
accession number
59282
catalog number
T02959.000
Sussex Print Works, 1915. Silk dress goods printed in black on white with a variation (S-222) of an "ant and swallow" design taken from the Bolling family crest in England, in honor of the marriage of President Woodrow Wilson and Edith Bolling Galt in December 1915.
Description
Sussex Print Works, 1915. Silk dress goods printed in black on white with a variation (S-222) of an "ant and swallow" design taken from the Bolling family crest in England, in honor of the marriage of President Woodrow Wilson and Edith Bolling Galt in December 1915. This variation has a pattern of checks in black on white, with black ants in the white squares and white birds in the black squares. The use of strict black and white reflects the fact that color dyes were scarce due to the blockade of Germany by British ships during WWI. German firms were the primary holders of dye and colorant patents, , and the blockade created a critical shortage of dyestuffs in the still-neutral United States in 1915-1916. When the US entered the war in 1917, on the British side, the German dye patents were seized and turned over to American manufacturers.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1915
referenced
Wilson, Edith Bolling Galt
maker
Sussex Print Works
ID Number
TE.T02960
accession number
59282
catalog number
T02960.000
Sussex Print Works, 1915. Silk dress goods printed in black on white with a variation (S-226) of an "ant and swallow" design derived from the Bolling family crest in England, to honor the marriage of President Woodrow Wilson and Edith Bolling Galt in December 1915.
Description
Sussex Print Works, 1915. Silk dress goods printed in black on white with a variation (S-226) of an "ant and swallow" design derived from the Bolling family crest in England, to honor the marriage of President Woodrow Wilson and Edith Bolling Galt in December 1915. This variation has a thin black check on a white ground, with scattered larger squares, white squares containing black ants and black squares containing white birds. The use of strict black and white reflects the fact that color dyes were scarce due to the blockade of Germany by British ships during WWI. German firms were the primary holders of dye and colorant patents, , and the blockade created a critical shortage of dyestuffs in the still-neutral United States in 1915-1916. When the US entered the war in 1917, on the British side, the German dye patents were seized and turned over to American manufacturers.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1915
referenced
Wilson, Edith Bolling Galt
maker
Sussex Print Works
ID Number
TE.T02961
accession number
59282
catalog number
T02961.000

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