French Stitchery

Northern France was one of the most war-torn areas of the Great War—the Germans entered early on in the war, displacing thousands of French people and destroying much of the region.  As fighting continued in France and trench warfare began, the country became even more devastated.  For the people who remained in northern France during the war, life itself was a battle, a daily struggle to survive, to make ends meet, and to rebuild lives.

The objects in this section are embroidered household items, which at first glance may seem quaint and unconnected to the hardships of living in a war zone.  However, these objects and their backstory show how profoundly World War I affected civilian women and how these women fought to meet the challenges of war.  Through the Society for Employment of Women in France, women in the region of Lorraine were able to sell this hand-made stitchery in America, with all of the proceeds going to the women and their families.  A June 1916 letter that accompanied some of these items paints a vivid picture of the women's lives and their efforts at survival: "The women sit inside their houses under fire constantly, and embroider. When a shell is heard on its way they duck into the cellars until it bursts, and then come out again at once. The cellars are all marked—that is[,] the safe ones, with signs pointing to them and telling their capacity. The women who embroider are those whose men—sons, husbands, and fathers are at the front or wounded or killed . . ."

This powerful scene of French peasant women working tirelessly to embroider household items, close enough to the front to be under constant fire, becomes all the more impressive when you see what the women were making.  The meticulous needlework represents the main Allied forces of the Great War in extraordinarily detailed cross-stitched tableaux depicting colorful soldier figures, flags, coats of arms, and even the city of Paris with planes flying overhead, protecting the city.  In addition to embroidery, which the women typically did during the winter months, they also took to the fields during the summer and tended crops, working until the fields were all harvested.

The flax for these objects was grown in Africa and shipped to France, where it was hand-woven to make the linen.

 

Further Resources

“A World of Thanks: World War I Belgian Embroidered Flour Sacks,” Herbert Hoover Presidential Library & Museum.

Leah Tams, "Embroidery under fire," O Say Can You See? Stories from the National Museum of American History (blog), March 5, 2015.

Cocktail napkin with Kingdom of Serbia flag motif (red, blue, and white tricolor). Green embroidery around edges. Made by French peasant women in French Lorraine during World War I. Sold in America through the Society for Employment of Women in France.Currently not on view
Description
Cocktail napkin with Kingdom of Serbia flag motif (red, blue, and white tricolor). Green embroidery around edges. Made by French peasant women in French Lorraine during World War I. Sold in America through the Society for Employment of Women in France.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1914-1918
ID Number
2011.0086.01
catalog number
2011.0086.01
accession number
2011.0086
Cocktail napkin with Belgian flag motif (black, yellow, and red tricolor). Green embroidery around edges. Made by French peasant women in French Lorraine during World War I. Sold in America through the Society for Employment of Women in France.Currently not on view
Description
Cocktail napkin with Belgian flag motif (black, yellow, and red tricolor). Green embroidery around edges. Made by French peasant women in French Lorraine during World War I. Sold in America through the Society for Employment of Women in France.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1914-1918
ID Number
2011.0086.04
catalog number
2011.0086.04
accession number
2011.0086
Cocktail napkin with French Republic flag motif (blue, white, and red tricolor). Green embroidery around edges. Made by French peasant women in French Lorraine during World War I. Sold in America through the Society for Employment of Women in France.Currently not on view
Description
Cocktail napkin with French Republic flag motif (blue, white, and red tricolor). Green embroidery around edges. Made by French peasant women in French Lorraine during World War I. Sold in America through the Society for Employment of Women in France.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1914-1918
ID Number
2011.0086.05
catalog number
2011.0086.05
accession number
2011.0086
Small drawstring knitting bag with white bird in blue background. Lace-like edging. Made by French peasant women in French Lorraine during World War I. Sold in America through the Society for Employment of Women in France.Currently not on view
Description
Small drawstring knitting bag with white bird in blue background. Lace-like edging. Made by French peasant women in French Lorraine during World War I. Sold in America through the Society for Employment of Women in France.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1914-1918
ID Number
2011.0086.14
catalog number
2011.0086.14
accession number
2011.0086
Cocktail napkin with Kingdom of Italy flag motif (green, white, and red tricolor; blue and red embroidery in the white stripe). Green embroidery around edges. Made by French peasant women in French Lorraine during World War I.
Description
Cocktail napkin with Kingdom of Italy flag motif (green, white, and red tricolor; blue and red embroidery in the white stripe). Green embroidery around edges. Made by French peasant women in French Lorraine during World War I. Sold in America through the Society for Employment of Women in France.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1914-1918
ID Number
2011.0086.02
catalog number
2011.0086.02
accession number
2011.0086
Cocktail napkin with Russian Empire flag motif (white, blue, and red tricolor; yellow and black embroidery in the white stripe). Green embroidery around edges. Made by French peasant women in French Lorraine during World War I.
Description
Cocktail napkin with Russian Empire flag motif (white, blue, and red tricolor; yellow and black embroidery in the white stripe). Green embroidery around edges. Made by French peasant women in French Lorraine during World War I. Sold in America through the Society for Employment of Women in France.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1914-1918
ID Number
2011.0086.03
catalog number
2011.0086.03
accession number
2011.0086
Cocktail napkin with British Empire flag motif (red cross with white background superimposed on white x-shaped cross with blue background). Green embroidery around edges. Made by French peasant women in French Lorraine during World War I.
Description
Cocktail napkin with British Empire flag motif (red cross with white background superimposed on white x-shaped cross with blue background). Green embroidery around edges. Made by French peasant women in French Lorraine during World War I. Sold in America through the Society for Employment of Women in France.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1914-1918
ID Number
2011.0086.06
catalog number
2011.0086.06
accession number
2011.0086
WWI French stitchery: tea napkin with Kingdom of Serbia royal coat of arms motif (red and silver shield at center with gold crown on top of the shield; red, gold, and black embroidery surrounding the shield with a second gold crown at very top). Green embroidery around edges.
Description
WWI French stitchery: tea napkin with Kingdom of Serbia royal coat of arms motif (red and silver shield at center with gold crown on top of the shield; red, gold, and black embroidery surrounding the shield with a second gold crown at very top). Green embroidery around edges. Pictured at bottom right of photo. Made by French peasant women in French Lorraine. Sold in America through the Society for Employment of Women in France.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1914-1918
ID Number
2011.0086.07
catalog number
2011.0086.07
accession number
2011.0086
WWI French stitchery: tea napkin with French Third Republic emblem motif (black and blue "RF" embroidered on red shield at top; 4 masted French flags below; green and white croix de guerre [war cross] at bottom with gold center). Green embroidery around edges.
Description
WWI French stitchery: tea napkin with French Third Republic emblem motif (black and blue "RF" embroidered on red shield at top; 4 masted French flags below; green and white croix de guerre [war cross] at bottom with gold center). Green embroidery around edges. Pictured at bottom center of photo (unfolded napkin). Made by French peasant women in French Lorraine. Sold in America through the Society for Employment of Women in France.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1914-1918
ID Number
2011.0086.08
catalog number
2011.0086.08
accession number
2011.0086
WWI French stitchery: tea napkin with Royal coat of arms of the United Kingdom motif (red, gold, and blue shield at center; gold lion at left standing on blue banner; silver unicorn at right standing on blue banner; gold crown at top with red and silver accents).
Description
WWI French stitchery: tea napkin with Royal coat of arms of the United Kingdom motif (red, gold, and blue shield at center; gold lion at left standing on blue banner; silver unicorn at right standing on blue banner; gold crown at top with red and silver accents). Green embroidery around edges. Pictured at top center of photo. Made by French peasant women in French Lorraine. Sold in America through the Society for Employment of Women in France.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1914-1918
ID Number
2011.0086.09
catalog number
2011.0086.09
accession number
2011.0086
WWI French stitchery: tea napkin with Belgian coat of arms motif (shield at center with gold lion over a black background; red banner below shield; gold crown with red accents at top of shield; green and gold Order of Leopold cross at bottom). Green embroidery around edges.
Description
WWI French stitchery: tea napkin with Belgian coat of arms motif (shield at center with gold lion over a black background; red banner below shield; gold crown with red accents at top of shield; green and gold Order of Leopold cross at bottom). Green embroidery around edges. Pictured at top right of photo. Made by French peasant women in French Lorraine. Sold in America through the Society for Employment of Women in France.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1914-1918
ID Number
2011.0086.10
catalog number
2011.0086.10
accession number
2011.0086
WWI French stitchery: tea napkin with Russian Empire coat of arms motif (gold crown at top with red accents; two-headed black eagle at center holding red shield with gold and blue accents; gold scepter in eagle's left foot, gold orb in eagle's right foot).
Description
WWI French stitchery: tea napkin with Russian Empire coat of arms motif (gold crown at top with red accents; two-headed black eagle at center holding red shield with gold and blue accents; gold scepter in eagle's left foot, gold orb in eagle's right foot). Green embroidery around edges. Pictured at top left of photo. Made by French peasant women in French Lorraine. Sold in America through the Society for Employment of Women in France.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1914-1918
ID Number
2011.0086.11
catalog number
2011.0086.11
accession number
2011.0086
WWI French stitchery: tea napkin with Kingdom of Italy coat of arms motif (red shield with white cross at center; gold and pink crown at top; 4 masted Italian flags surrounding shield). Green embroidery around edges. Pictured at bottom left of photo.
Description
WWI French stitchery: tea napkin with Kingdom of Italy coat of arms motif (red shield with white cross at center; gold and pink crown at top; 4 masted Italian flags surrounding shield). Green embroidery around edges. Pictured at bottom left of photo. Made by French peasant women in French Lorraine. Sold in America through the Society for Employment of Women in France.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1914-1918
ID Number
2011.0086.12
catalog number
2011.0086.12
accession number
2011.0086
Small drawstring knitting bag with two blue birds facing each other who appear to be holding a small cross in their beaks. Blue checkerboard border above and below the birds. Made by French peasant women in French Lorraine during World War I.
Description
Small drawstring knitting bag with two blue birds facing each other who appear to be holding a small cross in their beaks. Blue checkerboard border above and below the birds. Made by French peasant women in French Lorraine during World War I. Sold in America through the Society for Employment of Women in France.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1914-1918
ID Number
2011.0086.13
catalog number
2011.0086.13
accession number
2011.0086
Linen cover for unknown object. Royal coat of arms of the United Kingdom motif in center (red, gold, and blue shield at center; gold lion at left standing on blue banner; silver unicorn at right standing on blue banner; gold crown at top). Red and blue border around motif.
Description
Linen cover for unknown object. Royal coat of arms of the United Kingdom motif in center (red, gold, and blue shield at center; gold lion at left standing on blue banner; silver unicorn at right standing on blue banner; gold crown at top). Red and blue border around motif. Made by French peasant women in French Lorraine during World War I. Sold in America through the Society for Employment of Women in France.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1914-1918
ID Number
2011.0086.15
catalog number
2011.0086.15
accession number
2011.0086
WWI French stitchery: large drawstring knitting bag.
Description
WWI French stitchery: large drawstring knitting bag. One side has the French Third Republic emblem motif (blue "RF" embroidered on red shield at top; 4 masted French flags below; green and white croix de guerre [war cross] at bottom with gold center) with "1916" embroidered underneath in red. The other side has a scene of 4 French cavalry members with 4 brown horses in a wooded area. Green embroidery along the bottom and green X stitch holding drawstring on both sides. Made by French peasant women in French Lorraine. Sold in America through the Society for Employment of Women in France.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1914-1918
ID Number
2011.0086.16
catalog number
2011.0086.16
accession number
2011.0086
WWI French stitchery: medium-sized bag with two flaps and crocheted strap. Front side has "1914-1918" in embroidered in red on the flap with a red and blue border.
Description
WWI French stitchery: medium-sized bag with two flaps and crocheted strap. Front side has "1914-1918" in embroidered in red on the flap with a red and blue border. Below are 4 French military figures (from left to right): one man in light blue uniform holding French flag; one Zouave in red hat and pantaloons, short blue jacket; one man in blue uniform with light blue cape and hat; one man in red hat and pants, blue jacket, carrying a drum. Inside is a wrapper for knitting needles. Made by French peasant women in French Lorraine. Sold in America through the Society for Employment of Women in France.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1914-1918
ID Number
2011.0086.17
catalog number
2011.0086.17
accession number
2011.0086
WWI French stitchery: large drawstring knitting bag.
Description
WWI French stitchery: large drawstring knitting bag. One side has the French Third Republic emblem motif (blue "RF" embroidered on red shield at top; 4 masted French flags below; green and white croix de guerre [war cross] at bottom with gold center) with "1918" embroidered underneath in red. The other side depicts 7 soldiers from different Allied nations. Proceeding from left to right, the soldiers are as follows: French (holding a large French flag), Russian, British, Belgian, American, Serbian, and Italian. To the right of the soldiers is a flag pole flying the Allied flags, from top to bottom: Italy, Serbia, America, Belgium, Britain, Russian Empire, and France. Below the soldiers is "1914 - 1918" stitched in red and blue. Green embroidery along the bottom and green X stitch holding drawstring on both sides. A rusty needle is in the top flap of the bag. Made by French peasant women in French Lorraine. Sold in America through the Society for Employment of Women in France.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1914-1918
ID Number
2011.0086.18
catalog number
2011.0086.18
accession number
2011.0086
WWI French stitchery: tablecloth for a tea table with a brown and silver eagle in each corner. Each eagle holds the same 8 flags of Allied nations, 4 on each side. The flags on the left side are (top to bottom): Britain, Russia, Belgium, and Serbia.
Description
WWI French stitchery: tablecloth for a tea table with a brown and silver eagle in each corner. Each eagle holds the same 8 flags of Allied nations, 4 on each side. The flags on the left side are (top to bottom): Britain, Russia, Belgium, and Serbia. The flags on the right side are (top to bottom): France, Italy, Japan, and Romania. Each eagle holds an American shield emblem in its claws. Light green and brown embroidery resembling vines and wreathes border the tablecloth 4 inches from the edge. Light green zig-zag stitches along the tablecloth's edge. Made by French peasant women in French Lorraine. Sold in America through the Society for Employment of Women in France.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1914-1918
ID Number
2011.0086.19
catalog number
2011.0086.19
accession number
2011.0086
Rectangular brush and comb case with scene of "Aeroplanes Guarding Paris" embroidered on front. Four gold airplanes fly over a gray and black Paris skyline. Red and blue border.
Description
Rectangular brush and comb case with scene of "Aeroplanes Guarding Paris" embroidered on front. Four gold airplanes fly over a gray and black Paris skyline. Red and blue border. Price tag is pinned to the inside flap and reads: "$1.50 / Brush & / comb case / "Aeroplanes / guarding / Paris"." Made by French peasant women in French Lorraine during World War I. Sold in America through the Society for Employment of Women in France.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
ca 1914-1918
ID Number
2011.0086.20
catalog number
2011.0086.20
accession number
2011.0086
Letter from Mercy Richards Essig (Mrs. Norman Sturgis Essig), 1700 Locust Street, Philadelphia. Signed June 1916. The letter was sent with embroidered items from France made during World War I, purchased through the Society for Employment of Women in France. Mrs.
Description
Letter from Mercy Richards Essig (Mrs. Norman Sturgis Essig), 1700 Locust Street, Philadelphia. Signed June 1916. The letter was sent with embroidered items from France made during World War I, purchased through the Society for Employment of Women in France. Mrs. Essig describes the living and working conditions of the peasant women in French Lorraine who embroider the linens in order to provide for themselves and their families while the war rages on around them.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1916-06
ID Number
2011.0086.21
accession number
2011.0086
catalog number
2011.0086.21

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