"La Victoire" Dress Silks

A few weeks before the armistice that ended the fighting in World War I was signed in November 1918, an innovative American silk manufacturer, H.R. Mallinson & Co., Inc., headquartered in New York City, dedicated a new group of printed dress silk designs to France “as a tribute of appreciation of the debt of honor we all owe to this wonderful country...”  The designs were titled: “The Scouts,” “Marines and Camouflage,” “Chasseurs,” “French Harvest,” and “Guard Mount.” Titled La Victoire (Victory), this first series proved so successful that new designs were added to it after the Armistice, in conjunction with the Peace Conference being held in Paris: series II designs included “Minerva,” “Dove of Peace,” “Garden of the Trianon,”  “Arc de Triomphe,” “Women of the Allied Nations,” “Allied Soldiers at Versailles,” and two versions of a popular French good luck charm design called “Nennette and Rintintin.” 

The museum’s curator of textiles at the time, F.L. Lewton, recognized their importance, and requested that the manufacturer donate lengths of both series of the La Victoire silks. A letter from Lewton to Mallinson’s Art Director in January 1919 stated: “These will be installed within a few days so that the public may have the privilege of enjoying them and appreciating the significance of the designs while the Peace Conference is going on in Europe.”

The war’s impact lingered in the minds and memories of those who had lived through it. For the first anniversary of the Armistice in November 1919, Mallinson’s offered two commemorative designs: “Pershing Orchid” (for American general John Pershing) and a garland design called “Begonia Gloire de Lorraine.”  A Fall 1920 series was inspired by “...woodlands made famous by the recent war...pictured in soft autumn colors,” such as the Argonne, Monthiers, and Bois de Meuse. These had all been the scenes of terrible battles, but the silk designs depicted them as they had been before the destruction of the war. The 1920 series also included an exuberant print in celebration of the hard-won peace, called “Armistice Day.” It depicted “showers of confetti and swirls of paper...in artistic confusion against a plain dark ground.” (Neither of these later sets of designs are represented in the NMAH collections).

The silks were used by custom dressmakers, home sewers, and ready-to-wear manufacturers to make dresses, blouses, hats, and scarves, and to line coats and suit jackets. Mallinson’s silks were not inexpensive, but they had a reputation for high quality. The “French Harvest” fabric illustrated here, for example, cost about $4.00 per yard. A customer might purchase novelty designs such as these—very much “of the moment”—as a dress length of four or five yards if she were well-to-do, or just a yard or so, enough to make a blouse or scarf, if she had less money to spend on clothes but still wanted to appear up-to-date and patriotic.

In the 1910s and 1920s, many women still purchased fabric and took it to a dressmaker to stock their wardrobes. Ready-to-wear clothing was still an uncertain commodity, although by the end of the 1920s it would be far more important as an industry than custom clothing. But in the days when a woman chose the fabric for her clothing, selecting a design from the La Victoire dress silks gave a woman who did not yet have the right to vote a way to make a statement of personal and political interests and loyalties in a socially acceptable, feminine manner.

Credit for the written content of this section goes to Madelyn Shaw from the Division of Home and Community Life.

The peace treaty negotiations between Germany and the Allied powers exposed discord among the Allies. US President Wilson took a less punitive stance than the governments of Britain and France.
Description
The peace treaty negotiations between Germany and the Allied powers exposed discord among the Allies. US President Wilson took a less punitive stance than the governments of Britain and France. With its symbolic doves and olive branches, this design from the second series of La Victoire printed dress silks by H.R. Mallinson & Co., Inc. suggests a sympathy with Wilson’s war aims. The design was machine-printed on Mallinson's semi-sheer trademarked "Indestructible Crepe." A very thin pure dye crepe, similar to "Georgette". with dove of peace and olive branch design in blue and white on a dark ground.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1918
maker
H. R. Mallinson & Co. Inc.
ID Number
TE.T04078
accession number
63204
catalog number
T04078.000
T4078
The first H.R. Mallinson & Co. La Victoire series, designed just before the Armistice to end World War I in Fall, 1918, comprised 6 designs. The first series of La Victoire prints celebrated different aspects of the French military forces.
Description
The first H.R. Mallinson & Co. La Victoire series, designed just before the Armistice to end World War I in Fall, 1918, comprised 6 designs. The first series of La Victoire prints celebrated different aspects of the French military forces. The "Scouts" design is "a clever stripe design in which the French poilu is featured on a scouting expedition." (description taken from a Mallinson marketing booklet). Infantry scouts often operated alone, ahead of their units, trying to find out the size and placement of the opposing forces. In this striped design, the seated and standing figures of the scouts appear to melt into the trees. The design is machine-printed on a lightweight semi-sheer silk crepe that the Mallinson firm trademarked as "Indestructible Crepe."
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1918
maker
H. R. Mallinson & Co. Inc.
ID Number
TE.T04076
accession number
63204
catalog number
T04076.000
T4076
Displayed at the top of a staircase in the Louvre Museum in Paris since 1884, the Greek statue called “The Winged Victory of Samothrace” depicts the goddess Nike, or Victory.
Description
Displayed at the top of a staircase in the Louvre Museum in Paris since 1884, the Greek statue called “The Winged Victory of Samothrace” depicts the goddess Nike, or Victory. The statue’s symbolism served as the basis for this design of stripes containing "Winged Victory" motifs, printed in 4 colors on a tan ground of the manufacturer’s popular "Pussy Willow" fabrication. It is one of the second series of La Victoire prints, produced by H.R. Mallinson & Co. in conjunction with the Peace Conference that followed the signing of the Armistice ending the fighting in World War I.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1918
maker
H. R. Mallinson & Co. Inc.
ID Number
TE.T04086
accession number
63204
catalog number
T04086.000
T4086
French General Ferdinand Foch was named Supreme Commander of all the Allied forces in France in March 1918, and was named Marshal of France in July 1918. He accepted the German surrender in November of that year.
Description
French General Ferdinand Foch was named Supreme Commander of all the Allied forces in France in March 1918, and was named Marshal of France in July 1918. He accepted the German surrender in November of that year. This design, dedicated to this French war hero, is from the first La Victoire series, produced by H.R. Mallinson & Co, just before the armistice that ended the fighting in World War I. The striped design in gold on a dark blue ground, on semi-sheer "Indestructible Crepe" was inspired by the military insignia of four rows of oak leaves and seven stars that only Foch was entitled to wear, and which ornamented his uniform cap.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1918
maker
H. R. Mallinson & Co. Inc.
ID Number
TE.T04088
accession number
63204
catalog number
T04088.000
T4088
"The Garden of the Trianon" is a repeating design of a small Classical style temple surrounded by flowers and foliage, printed in 6 brilliant colors on silk "Pussy Willow," a popular fabrication by American silk manufacturer H.R. Mallinson & Co.
Description
"The Garden of the Trianon" is a repeating design of a small Classical style temple surrounded by flowers and foliage, printed in 6 brilliant colors on silk "Pussy Willow," a popular fabrication by American silk manufacturer H.R. Mallinson & Co. The design is from the second La Victoire series, produced by Mallinson in conjunction with the Peace Conference that followed the signing of the Armistice that ended the fighting in World War I. The gardens of the Trianon Palace, within the Versailles estate, must have provided welcome relief from the treaty negotiations for the delegates to the Peace Conference in 1919. The Grand Trianon Palace would also be the site of the signing of the Treaty of Trianon in June 1920, the formal ending of hostilities between the Allies and the newly formed nation of Hungary.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1918
maker
H. R. Mallinson & Co. Inc.
ID Number
TE.T04083
accession number
63204
catalog number
T04083.000
T4083
"Chasseurs" is a design from the first H.R. Mallinson La Victoire series, designed just before the Armistice to end World War I was signed in Fall, 1918.
Description
"Chasseurs" is a design from the first H.R. Mallinson La Victoire series, designed just before the Armistice to end World War I was signed in Fall, 1918. This example was printed on Mallinson's trademarked "Indestructible Crepe." The term “Chasseurs à cheval” designated elite units of the French cavalry – “chasseurs” meaning hunters, “à cheval,” on horseback. During World War I, dangerous reconnaissance missions were often given to the Chasseurs. The wide stripe design depicts standing figures and figures on horseback (the elite reconnaissance units of the French army) who appear poised for action among trees and shrubs, with a stream winding through. See TE*T04082 for the same design on a different ground cloth (Mallinson's Pussy Willow) and in a different colorway (5 colors on a dark blue ground).
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1918
maker
H. R. Mallinson & Co. Inc.
ID Number
TE.T04077
accession number
63204
catalog number
T04077.000
T4077
Figures of infantry and cavalry soldiers assemble at the call of a bugle for “Guard Mount,” the inspection and changing of the guard, in this design from H.R.
Description
Figures of infantry and cavalry soldiers assemble at the call of a bugle for “Guard Mount,” the inspection and changing of the guard, in this design from H.R. Mallinson & Co,’s first La Victoire series, produced just before the Armistice that ended the fighting in World War I was signed. The design is machine-printed in five colors on a taupe ground of “Pussy Willow” silk, one of Mallinson's most enduring fabrications. The firm’s marketing brochure stated, "To feature the French soldier at Guard Mount in a design so admirably adapted to feminine wear is indeed a masterpiece in the art of design."
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1918
maker
H. R. Mallinson & Co. Inc.
ID Number
TE.T04081
accession number
63204
catalog number
T04081.000
T4081
"Allied Soldiers at Attention" is a design from the second La Victoire series, produced by H.R. Mallinson & Co. in conjunction with the Peace Conference held after the armistice that ended the fighting in World War I.
Description
"Allied Soldiers at Attention" is a design from the second La Victoire series, produced by H.R. Mallinson & Co. in conjunction with the Peace Conference held after the armistice that ended the fighting in World War I. A tribute to the armed forces of the Allied nations, this design from the second La Victoire series features five soldiers in dress uniforms with their national emblems – perhaps a guard of honor for the peace negotiations then in progress at the Palace of Versailles, whose gardens and fountains appear in the background. Printed in five brilliant colors on a black ground of Mallinson's trademark "Pussy Willow.",
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1918
maker
H. R. Mallinson & Co. Inc.
ID Number
TE.T04087
accession number
63204
catalog number
T04087.000
T4087
In the summer of 1918, a fad for carrying tiny yarn-doll good luck charms arose in France, supposedly inspired by story about two orphaned children rescued and adopted by a French regiment.
Description
In the summer of 1918, a fad for carrying tiny yarn-doll good luck charms arose in France, supposedly inspired by story about two orphaned children rescued and adopted by a French regiment. “It is taking a long chance in these wild days of war… to go about unprotected by a Nennette and Rintintin.… if you have the one without the other, the charm is broken…” This design depicts the little dolls, linked by a length of yarn. The manufacturer noted that for each yard of the design they sold, five cents would be donated to the relief fund of the orphaned children of Alsace and Lorraine—two French provinces that were occupied by Germany during the war. The design is printed in 6 colors on a dark blue ground on Mallinson's popular "Pussy Willow" silk, from the second La Victoire series produced by Mallinson during the Peace Conference at Versailles in early 1919 that ended the First World War.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1918
maker
H. R. Mallinson & Co. Inc.
ID Number
TE.T04084
accession number
63204
catalog number
T04084.000
T4084
"Marines & Camouflage" is the title of this design, from the first La Victoire series designed by H.R. Mallinson & Co. just before the Armistice that ended the fighting in World War I was signed, in November 1918.
Description
"Marines & Camouflage" is the title of this design, from the first La Victoire series designed by H.R. Mallinson & Co. just before the Armistice that ended the fighting in World War I was signed, in November 1918. The firm’s marketing brochure stated,"That there is much real art in camouflaging is proven in this design in which you see the Marines and then you don't." Camouflage became a military necessity during World War I. Long range artillery and aerial observation and bombardment wreaked havoc within the static trenches, as did submarine warfare at sea. The armed forces required new ways to hide from enemy observation and attack, and recruited artists and scientists to assist with camouflage efforts. The importance of their efforts is recognized by this design, printed in five colors on a tan ground, on “Pussy Willow” silk, one of Mallinson's most enduring fabrications.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1918
maker
H. R. Mallinson & Co. Inc.
ID Number
TE.T04080
accession number
63204
catalog number
T04080.000
T4080
"Minerva" is one of the second series of La Victoire silks, produced by H.R. Mallinson & Co. in conjunction with the Peace Conference that followed the signing of the Armistice that ended the fighting in World War I.
Description
"Minerva" is one of the second series of La Victoire silks, produced by H.R. Mallinson & Co. in conjunction with the Peace Conference that followed the signing of the Armistice that ended the fighting in World War I. The Roman goddess of both war and wisdom, Minerva’s presence in this design suggests that the Mallinson company supported a gentler peace than would eventually be ratified by the Treaty of Versailles. The choice of Minerva, and not the Greek goddess Athena, who had similar attributes, may be due to Minerva’s association with weaving—a reminder of the medium for this message. This design of repeated roundels was printed in 4 colors on a blue ground of Mallinson’s popular “Pussy Willow” silk.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1918
maker
H. R. Mallinson & Co. Inc.
ID Number
TE.T04085
accession number
63204
catalog number
T04085.000
T4085
This design, titled "Dedicated to the Women of the Allied Nations," is from the second La Victoire series by H.R. Mallinson & Co., Inc., produced in conjunction with the Peace Conference after the Armistice that ended the fighting in World War in was signed.
Description
This design, titled "Dedicated to the Women of the Allied Nations," is from the second La Victoire series by H.R. Mallinson & Co., Inc., produced in conjunction with the Peace Conference after the Armistice that ended the fighting in World War in was signed. Machine-printed on Mallinson's trademark "Pussy Willow" silk, one of the firm's most enduring staple qualities, the design depicts stylized female figures in 'national' dress, including a "Liberty" figure to depict American women. Many of the designers and marketing staff in the Mallinson firm, as well as most of the mill-workers, were female. Perhaps this fact encouraged the company to recognize in silk the contributions to victory made by the women who supported the war effort both at home and in the theater of war, as volunteers and in professional capacities.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1918
maker
H. R. Mallinson & Co. Inc.
ID Number
TE.T04079
accession number
63204
catalog number
T04079.000
T4079
The devastation of war and the continuous drain of men from the farms to the armed forces affected France’s ability to feed its civilians and it soldiers. This design, from the first La Victoire series of dress silks created by H.R. Mallinson and Co.
Description
The devastation of war and the continuous drain of men from the farms to the armed forces affected France’s ability to feed its civilians and it soldiers. This design, from the first La Victoire series of dress silks created by H.R. Mallinson and Co. just before the Armistice that ended the fighting in World War I was signed in Fall 1918, celebrates detachments of troops assigned to assist with the harvest near the end of war. The firm’s marketing brochure describes the design as, "There's the wheat bound in sheaves, the various fruits of the harvest and the poilus hard at work gathering them for a harvest of Victory and Peace in this unusual design." There are two identical lengths in the collection, each printed on the Mallinson "Khaki Kool" fabrication in 5 colors on a dark blue ground. “Khaki Kool” was created by the Mallinson firm as a "Sport silk" early in the war, to give customers a silk alternative to scarce cotton and wool fabrics for sports and casual wear.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1918
maker
H. R. Mallinson & Co. Inc.
ID Number
TE.T04089.A-B
accession number
63204
catalog number
T04089.A-B
"Chasseurs" is a design from the first H.R. Mallinson La Victoire series, designed just before the Armistice to end World War I was signed in Fall, 1918.
Description
"Chasseurs" is a design from the first H.R. Mallinson La Victoire series, designed just before the Armistice to end World War I was signed in Fall, 1918. This example was printed in five colors on a dark blue ground on Mallinson's trademarked "Indestructible Crepe." The term “Chasseurs à cheval” designated elite units of the French cavalry – “chasseurs” meaning hunters, “à cheval,” on horseback. During World War I, dangerous reconnaissance missions were often given to the Chasseurs. The wide stripe design depicts standing figures and figures on horseback (the elite reconnaissance units of the French army) who appear poised for action among trees and shrubs, with a stream winding through. See TE*T04077 for the same design in a different quality (Indestructible Crepe) and colorway.
Location
Currently not on view
date made
1918
maker
H. R. Mallinson & Co. Inc.
ID Number
TE.T04082
accession number
63204
catalog number
T04082.000
T4082

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