World War One Laces

The laces made in Belgium during World War One are an important part of the lace holdings of the Division of Home and Community Life’s Textile Collection in the Smithsonian’s National Museum of American History. They are representative of laces made by about 50,000 lace makers throughout Belgium from 1914 through 1919, especially during the time of World War One.
In August 1914, the German army invaded and occupied Belgium. When Great Britain set up a blockade of the Belgian borders to prevent supplies from reaching Germany through Belgium, seven million Belgian people were cut off from imported food and other needed supplies. After the start of World War One the “Commission for Relief of Belgium” (CRB) was established with Herbert Hoover, a wealthy industrialist living in London at the time, as Chairman. Herbert Hoover, later U.S. President 1929-1933, was instrumental in negotiating with England and Germany for the delivery of much needed food shipments to Belgium. The negotiations also included the importation of thread for the Belgian lace makers and the export of the lace made from this thread. Orders for and deliveries of “War Laces” were managed through the CRB office in London. Numerous people in the Allied countries were generous in their willingness to buy the laces to support the Belgians.
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Belgian Lace maker is making lace among the ruins of World War One, © RMAH |
The Belgian lace committees worked closely with the “Commission for Relief of Belgium” as the work on behalf of the lace makers became even more important during World War One. Several famous Belgian artists were enlisted to make new designs. Among them were Isidore de Rudder, his sister Maria de Rudder, Charles Michel, and Juliette Wytsman, who designed some of the War Laces that are now part of the collection at the National Museum of American History.
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World War One laces often included names of people, places, inscriptions, and dates; a characteristic not usually found in other lace work. The lace often incorporates the coats-of-arms or national symbols of the Allied Nations as well as the nine Belgian provinces in recognition of the help received. It was hoped that these distinguishing elements would appeal to generous people around the world who might buy these laces in support of the Belgian people.
Lace is an ornamental openwork fabric created by looping, twisting, braiding or knotting threads either by hand or by machine. The main categories of handmade lace are needle lace, bobbin lace and decorated nets. Needle lace is created by making looped or knotted variations on the buttonhole stitch with a threaded needle on top of a pattern. Bobbin lace is created by twisting, crossing or plaiting multiple threads wound on bobbins. It is also made on a pattern, sometimes called a pricking. Bobbin and needle techniques can be combined in the same piece of lace. Bobbin and needle made lace motifs can also be applied to handmade or machine made nets.
During the 17th and 18th centuries the handmade lace industry played an important part in the economy of many European countries. Lacemaking was mostly a cottage industry with individual lace makers working in their homes for a lace dealer, who would supply the threads and patterns and collect the finished lace from the lace maker. Producing a handmade piece of lace is very time consuming, making the delicate fabric a very expensive and desirable fashion accessory. Members of royalty and the aristocracy were the customers for the fine laces with both men and women competing to display the most exquisite lace on their fashionable clothes in the 17th century through the mid-18th century. By the end of the 18th century men had stopped wearing lace, and fashion also changed to a much simpler, unadorned dress for women, which meant the demand for lace was in rapid decline. Until early in the 19th century almost all lace was handmade. However, the Industrial Revolution saw the development of machines for making lace that brought an end to most of the opulent handmade lace industry.
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Lacemaking in America came mostly with European immigrants, who practiced their craft in communities all over the country. The only documented large scale handmade lacemaking industry in the US was in Ipswich, Massachusetts in the late 18th century. That also came to an end with the change in fashion and development of the lace machines in the early 19th century. Most of the laces in the collection at the National Museum of American History were bought in Europe by American collectors and donated to the Museum. Currently the lacemaking traditions are being kept alive by modern lace makers who research and create lace as a hobby.
The Flanders region, including Belgium, was a center of excellence for lace making from the early 1600’s. However, in the early 20th century competition from machine-made lace and changes in fashion made it very difficult for lace makers to earn a living. Belgium’s Queen Elisabeth was concerned about this development and in 1910 and 1911 helped establish lace committees specifically to improve both the quality and the designs of the lace as well as to better the lives of the lace makers. Another committee was established for promoting the sale of Belgian lace abroad, as the Queen noticed that handmade Belgian lace enjoyed a renewed interest, especially among Americans. Committee members included the Vicomtesse de Beughem, an American married to a Belgian nobleman, Madame Kefer-Mali of Brussels, and Mrs. Brand Whitlock, wife of the American Envoy (later Ambassador) to Belgium. Some of the laces in the “War Laces” collection have connections to these three generous women. To continue to study the laces in the War Laces collection without the introduction, click here.


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Allied Nations Tablecloth
- Description
- This tablecloth is embellished with padded satin stitch embroidery and Point de Venise style needle lace. The center insets feature the coats-of-arms of the Allies: Romania, Belgium, Montenegro, Japan, Russia, United Kingdom, Serbia, Italy, France, and Portugal. The triangular insets with oak leaves and acorn motifs symbolize strength and endurance.
- Embroidered around the border is “1914 A MRS BRAND WHITLOCK 1915 1916 HOMMAGE RECONNAISSANT DES DENTELLIERES BELGES 1917” (1914 to Mrs. Brand Whitlock 1915 1916 grateful tribute from the Belgian lace makers 1917). The lace and embroidery was made by Belgian women during World War I.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- made during
- 1917-1918
- part of design
- 1915
- 1916
- 1917
- made during
- 1918
- part of design
- 1914
- described
- Whitlock, Ella Brainerd
- maker
- unknown
- ID Number
- TE.E383960
- catalog number
- E383960
- accession number
- 172208
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History
-
Tribute from Ardoye Table Runner
- Description
- This table runner has a central inscription of “VLAANDEREN IN DEN KRYG – HULDE VAN ARDOYE – 1915” (Flanders in War – Tribute from Ardoye). Nine embroidered Belgian province shields and the 1915 municipal shield for Ardoye decorate the border. The German Army used poisoned gas for the first time on the western front in 1915 by Ardoye near Ypres, West Flanders, Belgium.
- The linen fabric of the table runner is embroidered in satin stitch and French knots with cotton. The floral border surrounding the shields is rendered in the Bruges flower lace technique and braided mesh. Lace and embroidery was made by Belgian women during World War I.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- made during
- 1915-1918
- part of design
- 1915
- facilitator
- Hoover, Herbert
- maker
- unknown
- ID Number
- TE.E383961
- catalog number
- E383961
- accession number
- 172208
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History
-
Ardoye Orphanage Tablecover
- Description
- This round linen table cover contains the inscription “1915 ARDOYE - KLOOSTER DER H. KINDERSHEID VAN JESUS – WEESKINDEREN” (1915 Ardoye - Convent of the Holy Childhood of Jesus - Orphans) in the center. Ardoye (Ardooie) is in West Flanders, Belgium, in the area where the German army used poison gas for the first time on the western front in the second battle of Ypres in 1915.
- The table cover is centered with bobbin lace. Bruges flower lace as well as tape lace and braided mesh techniques were utilized by the Belgian lace makers, who made this during World War I.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- made during
- 1915-1918
- part of design
- 1915
- facilitator
- Hoover, Herbert
- maker
- unknown
- ID Number
- TE.E383962
- catalog number
- E383962
- accession number
- 172208
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History
-
American, Belgian and Whitlock Family Symbols Tablecloth
- Description
- This round tablecloth is decorated with the American and Belgian shields, and the Whitlock family crest. Mr. Brand Whitlock was the American envoy and later ambassador to Belgium from 1914 to 1921. Mrs. Brand Whitlock worked tirelessly on behalf of the Belgian lace makers during World War I.
- The center of the tablecloth is Old Flanders style bobbin lace with needle lace ground. The same lace pattern is used in TE*T14468A and TE*T14468B. A wide border of point de Venise style needle lace surrounds the four shields. Belgian lace makers made this tablecloth during World War I.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- made during
- 1914-1918
- described
- Whitlock, Ella Brainerd
- referenced
- Whitlock, Brand
- facilitator
- Hoover, Herbert
- maker
- unknown
- ID Number
- TE.E383963
- catalog number
- E383963
- accession number
- 172208
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History
-
Monogrammed Tablecloth
- Description
- The center of this fine linen tablecloth is decorated with three small monograms "EW" and scroll designs. EW most likely stands for Ella Whitlock, the wife of the American Envoy to Belgium. Mrs. Brand Whitlock worked tirelessly on behalf of the Belgian lace makers during World War I.
- The eight and one-half inch wide border on the tablecloth is executed in Point de Paris bobbin lace with symmetrical floral designs of roses and edelweiss, the favorite flowers of Queen Elisabeth of Belgium. Belgian lace makers made this tablecloth during World War I.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- made during
- 1914-1919
- described
- Whitlock, Ella Brainerd
- maker
- unknown
- ID Number
- TE.E383964
- catalog number
- E383964
- accession number
- 172208
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History
-
Belgian Provinces and Allied Nations Tablecloth
- Description
- This square table cover has shields of the nine Belgian provinces in the center and a border of animals representing four of the initial Allied powers: Bear (Russia), Lion (Belgium), Rooster (France), and Unicorn (Great Britain). The motifs were executed in Point de Paris bobbin lace and pulled thread embroidery by Belgian lace makers during World War I.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- made during
- 1914-1919
- maker
- unknown
- ID Number
- TE.E383965
- catalog number
- E383965
- accession number
- 172208
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History
-
Isidore de Rudder Designed Pillow Top
- Description
- This pillow top was designed by the Belgian sculptor Isidore de Rudder (1855-1943). The design of starfish, crabs, and eels in seaweed with the central inscription “1914 Yzer 1915” commemorates a famous battle at the Yzer River, where Belgian engineers prevented the German troops from advancing by manipulating the locks on the Yzer River to flood the surrounding fields.
- This pillow top in point de Venise style needle lace was made by Belgian lace makers during World War I. The pattern is preserved in the Royal Museum of Art and History in Brussels.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- made during
- 1915-1918
- part of design
- 1915
- 1914
- facilitator
- Hoover, Herbert
- designer
- de Rudder, Isidore
- ID Number
- TE.E383966
- catalog number
- E383966
- accession number
- 172208
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History
-
Belgian War Lace pillow top with American Eagle, 1915-16
- Description
- This panel was specifically designed to express appreciation to the Americans for their help during World War I. The entire panel was executed in fine Valenciennes style bobbin lace by Belgian lace makers. The American Eagle in the center is flanked by the coats-of-arms of Belgium and the municipality of Ruysselede (Ruiselede) in West Flanders. The inscription “AAN DE VEREENIGDE STATEN” (to the United States) is worked into the lace in the top border. “1914 HULDE EN DANK 1915” (1914 honor and thank you 1915) enhances the bottom border. The side borders contain the words “BELGIE” and “RUYSSELEDE” surrounded by floral designs.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- made during
- 1915-1916
- part of design
- 1915
- 1914
- maker
- unknown
- ID Number
- TE.E383967
- catalog number
- E383967
- accession number
- 172208
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History
-
American Eagle and Belgian Lion Table Scarf
- Description
- Both ends of this table scarf are decorated with the seals of the United States and Belgium. A cornucopia spilling from the US shield to the Belgian shield symbolizes generosity from the American people toward the Belgian people.
- The table scarf, with delicate handmade floral designs of Point de Gaze needle lace and mixed Brussels bobbin and needle lace, is appliquéd to machine made net. Belgian lace makers made this during World War I.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- made during
- 1914-1919
- facilitator
- Hoover, Herbert
- maker
- unknown
- ID Number
- TE.E383968
- catalog number
- E383968
- accession number
- 172208
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History
-
Monogrammed Fan Leaf with Designer’s Name
- Description
- This fan leaf is monogrammed A for Belgian King Albert I and E for Queen Elisabeth surmounted by the Belgian royal crowns and encircled by laurel as a symbol for victory. The dates 1914-1915 are on a shield held by the Belgian Lion in the center of the fan leaf below the Belgian and American flags. The names of the designer Juliette Wytsman, and the manufacturer and dealer Maison Daimeries-Petitjean are worked into the design. The fan leaf is an example of fine quality Point de Gaze needle lace made by Belgian lace makers during World War I. The fan leaf has never been mounted to fan sticks.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- made during
- 1915-1916
- inscribed in lace
- 1915
- 1914
- facilitator
- Hoover, Herbert
- described
- Albert I King of Belgium
- Elisabeth Queen of Belgium
- manufacturer
- Maison Daimeries-Petitjean
- designer
- Wytsman, Juliette Trullemans
- ID Number
- TE.E383969
- catalog number
- E383969
- accession number
- 172208
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History
-
Table Mat With English Scene
- Description
- This needle lace table mat commemorates the coronation of King George V in 1911. The four women represent Fortitude, Wisdom, Justice, and Peace, represented by the lance, helmet, sword, and shield. The artist was Bernard Partridge, who published the cartoon in Punch Magazine in 1911. The shields of England, Scotland, Ireland, and Wales are inserted in the corners of the mat. The center and the shields are made in the Point de Gaze technique. This beautiful needle lace was probably made by Belgian lace makers during World War I in gratitude for British help.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- made during
- 1914-1918
- depicted (sitter)
- George V King of the United Kingdom
- maker
- unknown
- ID Number
- TE.T13776
- catalog number
- T13776
- accession number
- 264477
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History
-
Fingerless Mitt
- Description
- This fingerless mitt, one of a pair, is handmade of white cotton in Chantilly style bobbin lace with floral motifs. A ribbon is added along the top edge. The back of the mitt is fastened with a small button. The mitt matches TE*T14221B and was identified by the donor as lace made by Belgian lace makers during World War I.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- made during
- 1914-1919
- maker
- unknown
- ID Number
- TE.T14221A
- catalog number
- T14221A
- accession number
- 273245
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History
-
Fingerless Mitt
- Description
- This fingerless mitt, one of a pair, is handmade of white cotton in Chantilly style bobbin lace with floral motifs. A ribbon is added along the top edge. The back of the mitt is fastened with a small button. The mitt matches TE*T14221A and was identified by the donor as lace made by Belgian lace makers during World War I
- Location
- Currently not on view
- made during
- 1914-1919
- maker
- unknown
- ID Number
- TE.T14221B
- catalog number
- T14221B
- accession number
- 273245
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History
-
American Eagle Motif
- Description
- Part of a set of six, this Valenciennes bobbin lace medallion focuses on the American eagle motif. Two other medallions with the Belgian lion coat-of-arms, two with the municipal shield of Ruysselede (Ruiselede) in the Belgian province of West Flanders; and another with the American eagle complete the set. See a similar motif in TE*E383967. Belgian lace makers made these laces during World War I.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- made during
- 1916-1918
- maker
- unknown
- ID Number
- TE.T14222B
- catalog number
- T14222B
- accession number
- 273245
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History
-
Ruysselede Municipal Shield Motif
- Description
- Part of a set of six, this Valenciennes bobbin lace medallion depicts the municipal shield of Ruysselede (Ruiselede) in the Belgian province of West Flanders. Other medallions, two with the American eagle, two with the Belgian lion coat-of-arms, and another with the municipal shield of Ruysselede complete the set. See a similar motif in TE*E383967. Belgian lace makers made these laces during World War I.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- made during
- 1916-1918
- maker
- unknown
- ID Number
- TE.T14222C
- catalog number
- T14222C
- accession number
- 273245
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History
-
Belgian Lion Motif
- Description
- Part of a set of six, this Valenciennes bobbin lace medallion features the coat-of-arms of Belgium. Other medallions, two with the American eagle, another with the Belgian lion coat-of-arms, and two with the municipal shield of Ruysselede (Ruiselede) complete the set. See a similar motif in TE*E383967. Belgian lace makers made these laces during World War I.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- made during
- 1916-1918
- maker
- unknown
- ID Number
- TE.T14222E
- catalog number
- T14222E
- accession number
- 273245
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History
-
Collar with Peace Doves
- Description
- This collar has motifs of peace doves and floral vases executed in mixed Brussels bobbin and needle lace techniques with ground and fillings in point de Gaze style needle lace. The scalloped edge has picots. Identified by the donor as lace made by Belgian lace makers during World War I
- Location
- Currently not on view
- made during
- 1914-1918
- maker
- unknown
- ID Number
- TE.T14223
- catalog number
- T14223
- accession number
- 273245
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History
-
Valenciennes Border
- Description
- The leaf pattern on this border is made in the Valenciennes square mesh bobbin lace technique in cotton thread. It has a two and one-half inch long pattern repeat. The edges are straight with picots on one side and unfinished ends. It was identified by the donor as lace made by Belgian lace makers during World War I.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- made during
- 1914-1918
- maker
- unknown
- ID Number
- TE.T14224
- catalog number
- T14224
- accession number
- 273245
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History
-
Valenciennes Border
- Description
- Floral motifs in the Valenciennes square mesh bobbin lace technique were used for this cotton lace border. The repeated pattern is four and three-eight inches long, and the ends are unfinished. The pattern is the same as in TE*T14225B, except for the scalloped edge. It was identified by the donor as lace made by Belgian lace makers during World War I.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- made during
- 1914-1918
- maker
- unknown
- ID Number
- TE.T14225A
- catalog number
- T14225A
- accession number
- 273245
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History
-
Valenciennes Border
- Description
- This cotton lace border with floral motifs was made using the Valenciennes square mesh bobbin lace technique. The repeated pattern is four and three-eight inches long, and the ends are unfinished. The pattern is the same as in TE*T14225A, but with a straight edge. It was identified by the donor as lace made by Belgian lace makers during World War I.
- Location
- Currently not on view
- made during
- 1914-1918
- maker
- unknown
- ID Number
- TE.T14225B
- catalog number
- T14225B
- accession number
- 273245
- Data Source
- National Museum of American History