Carpet, (or possibly a coverlet); red, brown, and natural; Jacquard woven with single and double woven sections; 1875-1914. Warp A is S-twist 2 ply, natural wool. Warp B is S-twist 2 ply, red wool(?); Selvage S-twist 4 ply white cotton. The cotton yarns are present for only 1/4 inch. Weft A Z-twist single of natural brown wool. the yarn is composed of black, dark and medium brown, and tan fibers, likely natural shades of wool rather than dyed fibers. Weft C is S-twist, 2 ply white cotton(?). Microscopic and chemical analysis will be required to determine the exact fibers used in the yarns, but it appears visually and texturally to be a blend of mohair and naturally colored wools with the exception of the red-dyed yarn. Thread count - 14 x 13 on each single layer, 28 x 26 for the 2 layers combined
The central field is 33" x 64" with a vermicelli design. it is bordered on all sides by sylized artichoke found in "Pomegranate" Pattern brocades of the Italian Renaissance, stylized art nouveau looking flower or palmette motif, framed with ogee curves, and ribboned garland motifs. The border designs are reminisicent of hybridized revival styles of the 19th century and may have been trying to evoke Asiatic motifs popular in the Aesthetics Movement. The border is 16" wide on all sides. The repeat unit in the border is 16" x16'. The style of the pattern with the open cetnral field makes it more likely to have been a carpet than a coverlet.
There is a note in the accession file that this piece was laundered in a washing machine possibly removing any sizing on the yarns and changing the overall texture. If this piece were predominantly sheep's wool, it would have felted in the washing machine from the soap, hot water, agitation combination. More work is defintely needed to determine exactly from what materials this object is constructed. This coverlet was purchased at an auction by the vendor in Hartwick, NY in 1980. It was washed in a washing machine prior to its purchase, which would have affected its original feel. That treatment may have radically altered the texture, i.e. removed the sizings and initated felting.