A length of piece dyed solid-color Mallinson trade name "Pussy Willow" silk in blue. Soft drapey plain weave fabric which is "tub fast" - meaning the color will not run or fade when the fabric is washed in water..This is a solid color coordinate for the printed silks in the National Parks series.
Two lengths (different colorways) of Mallinson's Morocco series printed Silk Crepe:"Setat". Smooth lustrous plain weave weighted silk fabric made with crepe weft yarn as in flat crepe. Printed design with an architectural motif named for a settlement in Central Morocco. (A) has a black ground with print in red, 2 shades of green, white, and yellow, (B) has a tan ("mauve bisque") ground with print in lime yellow, "copo de oro", coca, brown, and white. Company #s - fabric quality #450; pattern #847. One of H.R. Mallinson's 1930 "Morocco" print series, inspired by the film starring Gary Cooper and Marlene Dietrich, which was nominated for 4 Academy Awards in 1931.
Once the Great Depression took hold in 1930, textile companies attempted to remain profitable by cutting costs, including moving from "Pure Dye" to "Weighted" silks: weighting meant adding a chemical to the dye bath that was absorbed by the silk and made it fel somewhat heavier and of a better quality.
A process sample length of H.R. Mallinson' & Co.'s trade name "Slendora Brocade" in the raw. Woven snakeskin pattern. Weft-figured Jacquard woven fabric as it comes from the loom. The allover snakeskin pattern is produced by a white rayon weft which stands out against the lusterless silk ground of greenish tint. This is a fugitive tint used for identification of yarn in the mill, to guard against a weaver accidentally mixing the silk and rayon yarns on the quill in the shuttle.. Manufacturer's numbers: fabric quality # 4019; pattern # 8529. Undyed and unfinished, no color #.
Two lengths of piece-dyed, solid color Pussy Willow silk fabric.."Pussy Willow" was a long standing H.R. Mallinson & Co. tradename for a soft drapey plain weave fabric. It was marketed as pure-dye and tub fast (washable). One piece in orange and a second in blue. Solid color coordinates for the print series based on the 1925 New York Zoological Society sponsored expedition to the Galapagos Islands. Drawings by artist Helen Tee Van, who accompanied the expedition (Captained by William Beebe), were used as the basis for a series of printed dress silks by Mallinson.
A length of MC Migel's Mexixe series, 1914. Taffeta silk: "Mexixe Pussy Willow". Pure dye printed taffeta, design "Mexican feathers".
The Mexixe series was publicized as the first time an American textile company had utilized American design inspiration without looking to Paris first. The line was inspired by the prominence of Mexico and the US southwest in the news because of the US war against Pancho Villa.
M.C. Migel & Co., which in 1915 became H.R. Mallinson & Co., Inc., was known for innovation in silk design and silk manufacturing technology.
This printed dress silk from the H.R. Mallinson & Co. series titled "Bokhara" is inspired by designs for Kashmir shawls. The ground is Mallinson's "Indestructuble" silk voile, a semi-sheer fabrication - this particular piece has opaque vertical stripes in satin weave, giving the printed design both soft and crisp outlines. The design is printed in aqua, orange, yellow, pink, and light and dark green on dark blue, The title "Bokhara" was probably used to give an exotic flavor to this collection of prints, which were based on textiles made in India and the trans-Caucasus. Bokhara (Bukhara) is located in Uzbekistan, in Central Asia.
A length of M. C. Migel & Co., Inc "Ad Hoc" printed "Pussy Willow" Taffeta Brocade. Pure-dye, piece dyed, satin brocade taffeta, over printed by "Ad Hoc " process; first example of use in the U.S.
"Ad Hoc" printing was defined as block-printing in colors on a jacquard woven ground. Warp float patterned jacquard woven silk ground with small floral pattern; over printed with floral spray design. This colorway has a dark blue ground with floral design in greens, pinks, reds, orange, yellow, lavender accents.
M.C. Migel & Co., which in 1915 became H.R. Mallinson & Co., Inc., was known for innovation in silk design and silk manufacturing technology.
A length of H.R. Mallinson & Co's trade name "Indestructible" Crepe. A very thin, semi-sheer silk crepe, similar to "Georgette". This process sample illustrates the fabric as it is dyed in the piece and finished for sale. The fabric was woven in the raw and piece dyed navy blue.
A length of piece dyed silk "Kameo Krepe" (Mallinson trade name) in gray. Closely woven crepe fabric similar in construction to crepe de chine. The H.R. Mallinson company was well known for introducing new textures and weave effects in its product line. These were the 'novelties' as opposed to fabrics such as Pussy Willow and Indestructible Voile, which were the company's staple products and remained in the line for years, even decades. This solid-color fabric coordinates with print colors used in the Mallinson National Park series of printed dress silks.
A length of M. C. Migel & Co., Inc "Ad Hoc" printed "Pussy Willow" Taffeta Brocade. Pure-dye, piece dyed, satin brocade taffeta, over printed by "Ad Hoc " process; first example of use in the U.S.
Warp float patterned jacquard-woven dress silk over-printed with rose stem design. One of 4 colorways of the same design. This colorway has a very dark green (almost black) ground with the flowers in orange-red, red, browns, peach, blue, yellow. with pink accent. "Ad Hoc" printing was defined as over printing in colors on a jacquard woven ground. M.C. Migel & Co., which in 1915 became H.R. Mallinson & Co., Inc., was known for innovation in silk design and silk manufacturing technology.
