One from a set of three engraved pantograph plates, Cheney Brothers, 1913. Engraved with the design for the printed satin, T-1041 through T-1043. These plates were used to transfer the textile design to the copper printing rollers. 3 plates. Com. 4454; Style 3670/4; No. 536. These plates match the original design drawings, T1039.
Length of a Cheney Brothers silk "Shikii" printed fabric. A plain weave, rough surfaced all-silk fabric with silk frisons weft. The fabric is lighweight and drapes well. It is printed in an allover subtle grid pattern of flowers and bird set within a circular wreath, linked by scrolling linework (#19363) in red, green, yellow, and tan on blue ground. Style #6493/1. Wholesaled for $1.50 per yd. (W. 30 in., L. 36 in.)
Cheney Brothers textile design point paper. This is the weave draft of the design for a satin damask upholstery fabric with a Louis XVI style pattern, in rose, T2841. The donation also includes the original painted textile design for this fabric (T2839) and a sample of the finished cloth. This draft has been had painted on the gridded textile design paper for guiding the punching of the jacquard cards and threading the loom.
Original cataloging: draft of design #2839, the enlarged and finished draft painted on textile design paper for fabric #2841
Cheney Brothers Tram. Canton. Red. 1 skein. Part of gift illustrating all the steps in making silk textiles at the Cheney Brothers mill in South Manchester, CT. Sales offices: 4th Ave. and 18th St., New York City
Skein of thrown silk organzine, Italian, Cheney Brothers, 1913 Organzine. Thrown silk. Italian. Yellow. 1 skein. Part of gift illustrating all the steps in making silk textiles at the Cheney Brothers mill in South Manchester, CT. Sales offices: 4th Ave. and 18th St., New York City
Cheney Brothers silk furnishing (curtain) fabric length. A slightly stiff, slightly sheer gauze all silk fabric. Either left undyed or piece dyed off-white. (W. 49 in., L. 144 in.)
First of a set of two Cheney Brothers red silk and cotton satin-striped furnishing / upholstery fabric samples. A mid-to-heavyweight drapey fabric with satin weave stripes on a broken twill ground. Woven with a dull red cotton weft and a bright red silk warp. (W. 48 in., L. 2 yds). Original specimen appears to have been cut into 2 pieces.
Cheney Brothers jacquard figured silk satin fabric sample length. Very lightweight, one-shuttle satin for use in men's scarves (neckties). Branch bouquet pattern in blue on grey satin ground. Significant shattering. (W. 24 in., L. 36 in.)
Sample length of a Cheney Brothers silk furnishing fabric. Original cataloging called it "Tapestry woven" but is really a jacquard-woven compound weave with several supplementary wefts. For use in upholstery. Rococo-revival pattern of meandering floral vines in green with peach, pink, white and yellow flowers, against a lace-pattern meander; on a very pale gray-green ground with a horizontal rib textured effect. (W. 50 in., 36 in.) The original painted design for this textile is T-1055. Mfrs. #s: Com. 4629; No. 65813; Color 3272/3
Length of Cheney Brothers Striped Velvet Furnishing Fabric, 1913. Vertically striped by varying pile density, with dense stripes and sparse stripes that allow the tan ground to show through clearly. Muted or grayed purple silk cut pile on tan cotton ground.. 2.75"x 4.25" sample cut from corner of the length. (W. 51 in., L. 54 in.)
Point paper for woven silk; Cheney Brothers, 1916. And T-2842, point paper drafts for armure silk. design for T02844, Point papers were used to plot a design out for cutting the cards for Jacquard-loom-woven textiles.
Length of a Cheney Brothers "Shikii" silk fabric. A plain weave, rough surfaced fabric with silk warp and silk frisons weft. A lighweight fabric that drapes well. Printed with an allover pattern (#37671) of trees and flowers influenced by 18th c. folk design. Colors: green, blue, red, brown on natural tan ground. Wholesaled for $1.50 per yd. (W. 30 in., L 36 in.)
Length of Cheney Brothers printed silk satin fabric. Japanese-inspired pattern of cherry blossom sprays in white, gray and pink on a lavender-pink ground with a variety of interspersed cartouche shapes, framing natural scenes of ducks, nesting bird with peonies, boat, and a lake/harbor scene with mountains in the distance. (W. 30 in., L. 36 in.)
Cheney Brothers gift of bag of white silkworm cocoons. Part of gift illustrating all the steps in making silk textiles at the Cheney Brothers mill in South Manchester, CT. Sales offices: 4th Ave. and 18th St., New York City
A length of lightweight satin-weave silk, printed with a modernist design of of flower heads and leaves on a purple ground. Ground cloth is satin weave silk, light but having more body than charmeuse. The floral design has a 'stencil' effect, with each element separate from the others and outlined in solid black. Fauve-inspired colors are bright green, magenta, yellow, and medium brown with black. T1033,1034,and 1035 are colorways of the same design.
Part of a large donation of fibers, yarns, fabrics, original designs, and printing tools given by Cheney Brothers, one of the earliest and largest of America's silk manufacturers, in 1913.
Zinc plate prepared for use on the pantograph machine; Cheney Brothers, 1916. For transferring design T2831 to the copper printing rollers. One of six (6) plates for this design. Group for this design also includes the original painted design, the enlarged design sheets for transferring the design to the plates, the plates, and a length of the printed fabric. (T.02834)
Sample length of Cheney Brothers border printed satiin-striped silk Voile, 1913. Sheer open plain weave with variable width satin stripes. Printed border in banded design inspired by Paisley and Kashmir shawls and near-eastern rugs - stylized geometric and flower forms in dull red, green, blue-gray, and black on pale blue. (W. 50 in., L. 36 in.) Possibly designed by Sophie Crownfield.