Bag of French yellow silk cocoons, Cheney Brothers, 1913. Silk. French. Yellow. Part of gift illustrating all the steps in making silk textiles at the Cheney Brothers mill in South Manchester, CT. Sales offices: 4th Ave. and 18th St., New York City
Cheney Brothers textile design point paper. This is the weave draft of the design for a satin damask upholstery fabric with a Louis XVI style pattern, in rose, T2841. The donation also includes the original painted textile design for this fabric (T2839) and a sample of the finished cloth. This draft has been had painted on the gridded textile design paper for guiding the punching of the jacquard cards and threading the loom.
Original cataloging: draft of design #2839, the enlarged and finished draft painted on textile design paper for fabric #2841
Cheney Brothers Noils. Silk. B. F. noils. Part of gift illustrating all the steps in making silk textiles at the Cheney Brothers mill in South Manchester, CT. Sales offices: 4th Ave. and 18th St., New York City
Length of a Cheney Brothers lightweight silk satin damask, 1913. All silk, turned satin damask with pattern showing in lighter shiny satin weave against darker matte reverse of the satin weave. Organzine yarns, very fine. Patterned with large scale 16th century Renaissance revival design featuring a foliate ogival lattice with crowns, pearls, and palmettes (without pomegranaes) in the reserves. Weave structure gives a pink figure on a red ground. (W. 51 in., L. 36 in.) Suitable weight for furnishing or apparel.
Cylinder of Cheney Brothers Silk Tram Floss, 1913. 1-1/2 in. Dia., L. 2-3/4 in. Part of gift (Feb 1913) illustrating all the steps in making silk textiles at the Cheney Brothers mill in South Manchester, CT. Sales offices: 4th Ave. and 18th St., New York City
Cheney Brothers textile design point paper. This is the weave draft of the design for a satin damask upholstery fabric with a Louis XVI style pattern, in rose, T2841. The donation also includes the original painted textile design for this fabric (T2839) and a sample of the finished cloth. This draft has been had painted on the gridded textile design paper for guiding the punching of the jacquard cards and threading the loom.
Original cataloging: draft of design #2839, the enlarged and finished draft painted on textile design paper for fabric #2841
Cheney Brothers textile design point paper. This is the weave draft of the design for a satin damask upholstery fabric with a Louis XVI style pattern, in rose, T2841. The donation also includes the original painted textile design for this fabric (T2839) and a sample of the finished cloth. This draft has been had painted on the gridded textile design paper for guiding the punching of the jacquard cards and threading the loom.
Original cataloging: draft of design #2839, the enlarged and finished draft painted on textile design paper for fabric #2841
Enlarged textile design for pantograph plates; Cheney Brothers, 1916. Enlarged version of floral design T2831, used for transferring the designs to the pantograph plates. Design for a printed FLorentine silk, T2834. 6 specimens, Dimesnions listed as 19.5" x 29" and 19" x 26". Set includes the original design T2831, and the pantograph plates, T2833 (6 specimens) used on the pantograph machine to transfer the design to the copper printing roller.
depicting green, gray, red, purple, and blue striped floral motif. "#1176-#4 Plate" written in pencil along the top edge of the paper. "T2832" written in pencil in the lower right corner. Deliberate triangular shaped cut-outs near each of the four edges of the paper. Faint pencil grid lines in the background. "T 2832" in the upper left corner of the verso: "T" written in pencil, "2832" stamped in black ink. "T2832C" written in pencil in the lower right corner. Curving pencil lines across verso.
Zinc plate prepared for use on the pantograph machine; Cheney Brothers, 1916. For transferring design T2831 to the copper printing rollers. One of six (6) plates for this design. Group for this design also includes the original painted design, the enlarged design sheets for transferring the design to the plates, the plates, and a length of the printed fabric. (T.02834)
Cheney Brothers textile design point paper. This is the weave draft of the design for a satin damask upholstery fabric with a Louis XVI style pattern, in rose, T2841. The donation also includes the original painted textile design for this fabric (T2839) and a sample of the finished cloth. This draft has been had painted on the gridded textile design paper for guiding the punching of the jacquard cards and threading the loom.
Original cataloging: draft of design #2839, the enlarged and finished draft painted on textile design paper for fabric #2841
Zinc plate prepared for use on the pantograph machine; Cheney Brothers, 1916. For transferring design T2831 to the copper printing rollers. One of six (6) plates for this design. Group for this design also includes the original painted design, the enlarged design sheets for transferring the design to the plates, the plates, and a length of the printed fabric. (T.02834)
Original design for Cheney Brothers jacquard-woven furnishing fabric; 1916, This stage of the design shows it half and half on plain and square-graphed paper. Enlarging the original pattern to the point paper, which is what is used as the guide to set up the warps on the loom, required 5 sheets of point paper. Enlarged and finished draft painted on squared textile design paper for finished woven fabric #2847.
Pantograph plate for transferring design for printed fabric to a copper roller. Zinc plates prepared with engraved design for use on the pantograph machine, for transferring design #T2823 to the copper printing roller or cylinder. 2 pieces: (A) 9" x 15" and (B) 15.5" x 17.5" Design for printed fabric, sample #T2826, printed Crepe Velour by Cheney Brothers.
Cheney Brothers Printed "Samara" Dress Silk, 1916 Light thin plain weave. Printed with a scattered floral motif of a stem with long leaves and many small flower heads, similar to a lily of the valley, but the flowers are star-shaped, in white on a blue ground. Discharge or blotch print? The white and the blue are clear on both sides.
Original cataloging: Printed Samara silk. A showerproof plain weave fabric with a subdued satiny sheen. Floral pattern in white on a dark blue ground. Width: 40"
NB: In the early 20th century several "showerproof' silks were introduced by different firms. This meant that the finish would not wash out of a garment if the wearer was caught in the rain.
Pantograph plate for transferring design to printing roller. Cheney Brothers, 1916. Pantograph plate of zinc, engraved with design T2827, in preparation for transerring of design to copper printing roller. Set includes the original design, the enlarged design for the pantograph, the zinc pantograph plates, and the finished fabric sample. 3 specimens. A: 17.5" x 22.5"; B: 17" x 17" ; C;???
Zinc plate prepared for use on the pantograph machine; Cheney Brothers, 1916. For transferring design T2831 to the copper printing rollers. One of six (6) plates for this design. Group for this design also includes the original painted design, the enlarged design sheets for transferring the design to the plates, the plates, and a length of the printed fabric. (T.02834)
A sample length of Cheney Brothers printed apparel silk "crepe velour", 1916. 40" width. This is a sample length of the second of two colorways: A- black, green, and pinks on white and B -pinks, green, and lavender on purple. Japonisme design of scattered chrysanthemum sprigs, imitation of an ikat or warp print. A thin, lightweight, plain weave silk, similar to Mallinson's Pussy Willow tradename.
Original cataloging: Printed crepe velour. A light weight silk with a crepey finish, chrysanthemum pattern. Colors: black and pink on white and white and pink on blue. Cheney Brothers. Sample shows significant fading. 3" x 4.5" and 6" x 8" pieces cut from corners of the sample. (W. 40 in., L. 36 in.)
Length of a silk warp, cotton weft, Cheney Brothers "armure silk" furnishing fabric, 1916. Medium green ribbed ground weave with warp float patterning of Neo-Classical style: Alternating motifs, one with ribbon, bow, and wreath design and one with oval frames holding torch and bow linked by leaf and floral swags and ribbon garlands. Slide repeat. 35" L x 50" W. Stamped on one crosswise end, "Cheney Silks". Coordinating objects from this donation are: T-2842, design for Armure silk; and T-2843, point paper drafts for armure silk.
Original cataloging: Upholstery fabric armure silk. A tapestry weave silk warp and cotton weft. Allover conventional pattern formed by a satin float figure. Color: green. Width: 50".
A sample length of Cheney Brothers printed apparel silk "crepe velour", 1916. 40" width. This is a sample length of the first of two colorways: black, green, and pinks on white and pinks, green, and lavender on purple (dark blue?). Japonisme design of scattered chrysanthemum sprigs, imitation of an ikat or warp print. A thin, lightweight, plain weave silk, similar to Mallinson's Pussy Willow tradename.
Original cataloging: Printed crepe velour. A light weight silk with a crepey finish, chrysanthemum pattern. Colors: black and pink on white and white and pink on dark blue. Cheney Brothers. Sample shows significant fading. 3" x 4.5" and 6" x 8" pieces cut from corners of the sample. (W. 40 in., L. 36 in.)
Sample cut of a Cheney Brothers printed Florentine silk. A thin, lightweight plain weave silk printed with a conventionalized fringed-petal flower and spiky leaf design with bands of craquelure in the background, on a black ground. Print colors: light blue, pink, light brown, green, gray,
Original cataloging: Printed Florentine silk. A light spun-silk filled pongee. Floral pattern in 7 colors on a black ground. Width: 32"
Grouping for this design includes the original painted design, the enlarged design sheets for creating the pantograph plates, and the plates for transferring the design to the copper rollers or cylinders.