Blue and white overshot coverlet panel or length. According to the donor, this coverlet was acquired whole during the Civil War by Union officer, Capt. Peter Stamats during General Sherman’s “March to the Sea.” Stamats took this coverlet from an evacuated enemy encampment. Stamats is a grandfather of the donor. This blue and white overshot coverlet panel was woven in a pattern similar to “Seven Stars.” When Capt. Stamats returned home, he separated the coverlet into panels and gave them to his three children. The panel measures 93 inches by 26.25 inches. All of the yarns, both the cotton ground warp and weft and the wool supplementary weft yarns are Z-spun singles. It is possible that this coverlet was produced by enslaved weavers.
A nineteenth-century, Pennsylvania weaver wove this red, blue, and green, all-wool, turned twill woven coverlet. The turned twill pattern forms a squared off design with diamond twill sections. There is self-fringe along three sides. The coverlet was constructed of two panels, woven as one length, cut, and seamed together to create the finished width. The coverlet measures 92 inches by 74 inches.
Matthew Rattray (1796-1872) woven is blue and white, Jacquard, double cloth coverlet in Richmond, Wayne County, Indiana in 1853. The coverlet measures 93 inches by 77 inches and was constructed from two panels woven as one length, cut, and sewn together in the center. There is self-fringe along the bottom edge. The centerfield design is foliate and geometric carpet medallion motif. The side borders show pairs of adorsed birds of paradise perched on branches. The lower border shows pairs of birds feeding their young on oak tree branches. The corner block logo is an eagle with twenty-six stars and the date, 1853. This cornerblock trademark is associated with the coverlet weaver, Matthew Rattray. Rattray was born and trained as a fancy weaver in Paisley, Scotland. Although there has yet to be evidence discovered, it is likely that Rattray first immigrated to America to work for a large industrial mill in New England before moving West to Indiana in the early 1840s. Once in Indiana, Rattray advertised extensively about his New York-made Jacquard machine, his ability to design and replicate patterns, and his proficiency at Figured and Fancy carpets, coverlets, and other fancy goods.
Blue and white, cotton and wool, overshot coverlet, featuring a pattern similar to Governors Garden or Mountain Cucumber (see page 154 Shuttle Craft Book of American Hand Weaving). The fringe is white and may be machine made. It has been applied to three sides. The top edge is hemmed, and a selvedge can be seen on the sides. The coverlet is in good condition.
Jacquard coverlet, red, white & blue double weave, fringe on 3 sides. 1. (border) Christian & heathen 2. (center) potted flowers, birds perched in trees.
According to the donor the coverlet was originally owned by Amanda Melvina Franklin (Mrs. George Overman, Albany, New York, and taken to Portland, Oregon in 1852
Jacquard Figured and Fancy coverlet; red, white & blue, single weave, self fringe on 2 sides. Four rows of stylized flowers with smaller flowers in between. The border design is a vine with leaves, and there is a signature block in the lower two corners which says "Middletown Fredk. County Maryland". Probably woven by Frederick Uber or Andrew Corick.
This is a blue and white, double-cloth, Figured and Fancy coverlet features along fringe three sides, and a spread eagle lower border. The center design is variation of the “Double Rose” carpet medallion pattern with ivy leaf accents. The side borders display an interlocking “Double Flower” motif that is reminiscent of lotus flowers. The two lower corner blocks feature pairs of dogs and a woven inscription which reads, "1831 EAW/ Pompey." There is a four inch self-fringe on the lower edge and an applied fringe on the sides that is also four inches long. The coverlet was constructed of two panels that were woven as one length, cut, and seamed up the middle.
This coverlet was woven in Pompey, Onondaga County, New York in 1831. There has been some scholarly debate about who the Pompey weaver(s) may have been. At first scholars looked for a weaver with the last name Pompey, but they quickly realized the weaver was operating in the town of Pompey. There are extant dated coverlets in this style ranging from 1831-1836. There three coverlet weavers in Pompey at the time. Benjamin June and his son, Benjamin Jr. and Henry L. Goodrich. All three of these weavers could possibly be the maker of this and the other Pompey coverlets; however, the signed June family coverlets omit the town name from their designs, leaving Goodrich the most likely candidate. Federal census records list Henry as a resident of Rensselaer County, New York in 1830 and 1840, but occupation was not a recorded category in the early census. It is unclear when and why Henry spent time in Onondaga County and more research is needed to unravel the mystery and confirm or deny the attribution of these coverlets to Goodrich. The style of this coverlet is reflective the organization, arrangement, and style of the earlier Figured and Fancy coverlets foun
An unidentified weaver wove this blue and white, Figured and Fancy, double cloth coverlet. The centerfield design features oak leaf and flower, sprig and floral, foliate swag, and leaf carpet medallions. All four of the borders depict the No. 240 engine and coal car being operated by the engineer. The cornerblocks depict four profile portraits of M. T. McKennon, the first president of the railroad. He is surrounded by the woven inscription, “Hemfield Railroad.” The Hempfield Railroad was began in 1851 and designed to connect Wheeling, Virginia (current West Virginia) to Washington, Pennsylvania. Construction was not complete until 1857 and the railroad operated until 1871 when it was sold to the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad. It is not clear if these coverlets were used on the passenger cars or sold to subscribers. The railroad was initially funded through subscription, and it is possible that these coverlets were made to help facilitate that process or just to commemorate the arrival of the railroad. The coverlet was likely made c. 1851 either in Wheeling or Western Pennsylvania. The railroad operated three locomotive engines, six freight and passenger cars, and eleven coal cars.
Imprisoned weavers at Auburn State Prison loom house wove this Jacquard, double-cloth coverlet with an ornate carpet medallion centerfield and floral borders in Auburn, Cayuga County, New York in 1838. The coverlet also features the dated floral cornerblocks associated with the prison’s other attributed coverlets. Being double-cloth, the coverlet is composed of two sets of warp and weft. The red and blue wool yarns are S-spun singles and the natural cotton yarns are 2-ply, S-twist, Z-spun. The coverlet measures eighty-eight by sixty-four inches and features a center seam.
Not much work has been done on prison weaving in the 19th century. Ralph S. Herre wrote a dissertation while at Penn State University entitled, "The History of Auburn Prison from the Beginning to about 1867." He confirmed that the prison did have a carpet weaving shop, sold to local customers, and even attempted to cultivate and manufacture silks. In American Coverlets and Their Weavers (2002), Clarita Anderson included an entry for a coverlet which had a family history of being from Auburn State Prison and dated 1835. Anderson pointed out that of the four confirmed Auburn State coverlets she had encountered most are Biederwand structure, not double weave. She attributed the coverlets to New York weaver, James Van Ness (1811-1872).
The two Auburn State Prison coverlets in the NMAH collection have a similar corner block organization but different motifs, suggesting the possibility that the individual(s) designing the point papers and cutting the cards for these coverlets were the same person, maybe even Van Ness. More research is needed to confirm Anderson's attribution. It could be, and likely was the case, that the prisoners were trained in coverlet and ingrain carpet weaving by a master weaver, perhaps even Van Ness. At the very least, ornate Fancy weave jacquard card sets were purchased by the prison with the express purpose of producing fancy weave coverlets for general consumption. Prisoners at Auburn State were organized in what became known as the Auburn- or Congregate-Style. Prisoners spent most of their time in isolation in their cells. They were released for work hours, six days a week. They walked silently to work, worked in silence, and lived in silence. This coverlet is a fascinating material glimpse into the culture and economics of prisons in the 19th century.
This blue and white cotton and wool coverlet features a variation of the Snowball pattern in the center, and a variation of the Pine Tree pattern along its borders. It is double-woven and believed to have been made in New York State in the first half of the 19th century. It was passed down through the family of the original owner to the donor, before being given to the Museum. The name of the weaver is unknown. Its condition is testimony to many years of use. Coverlets are damaged by sunlight, insects, and abrasion brought on by everyday use. They are frequently worn away at the top edge, by the owner pulling them up at night to stay warm.
This blue and white, Jacquard double-cloth, coverlet was passed down through the Robbins family of Ohio. According to family history, the Robbins migrated from New York to Ohio in 1818. The patterns used on this coverlet suggest a date after 1818, meaning that this coverlet was most likely woven in Ohio between the years, 1830-1850. More research into the Robbins family genealogy and comparative analysis with other extant Ohio blue and white double-cloth coverlets should provide more information about the weaver and which county in Ohio this coverlet was woven.
Being double-cloth, there are two sets of warp and weft that make up this coverlet. The white yarns are 3-ply, S-twist, Z-spun cotton and the blue yarns are all 3-ply, S-twist, Z-spun wool. The centerfield pattern consists of floral and foliate motifs symmetrically arranged and symmetrically interspersed with birds. The border consists of groups of flowers resembling dogwood flowers and morning glories. There is fringe on 3 sides of the coverlet, and the top edge binding is worm off. The upper edge of the coverlet is badly worn. The top lay count of the coverlet is 18x18 threads per inch.
Fragment of a twill weave, plaid coverlet or blanket, 19th century. Multi-colored plaid made with Rose path or Birds eye weave. The pattern is predominantly black and brown plaid-like pattern, with various zig-zag and diamond shapes. The hem is 1/4 inch and stitched with brown 3/2 ply z twist cotton. The center seam overcast with brown wool yarn.
This is a blue and white, overshot coverlet, woven in an "Orange Peel." pattern. The lower edge is finished with a self fringe. There are three borders are which are reduced variations of the main pattern. The coverlet was woven in 2 pieces and sewn together. The letters "E W" and the date 1829 are woven into the coverlet on the right upper edge of the left half. (It appears to be in the center of the upper edge.)
The vendor's mother purchased this item in either New England or New York.
This Jacquard single woven coverlet is red, white, blue, and green, with fringe on 3 sides. It has borders of double birds & roses, and double rose medallions in the center. The coverlet is seamless. There is a 3 1/2 inch fringe along 3 sides of the coverlet. In the lower 2 cornersan inscription is woven into the coverlet; "MADE BY DANIEL GOODMAN NESCOPECK LUZERNE CO FOR MARGARET ROUGH PENN. 1842'" Daniel Goodman was born ca 1800 to Peter and Christina Krauss Goodman in Berks CO. PA. He married Elizabeth and they had four sons. He died ca. 1860 in Nescopeck, Luczerne, PA. The coverlet was made for Margaret Rough. Margaret Rough was born November 20, 1822, to Daniel and Ann Henry Rough. She married Daniel Frederici (1820-1903). She died October 18, 1888. The donor, Stella Lutz gave the coverlet in memory of Mrs. Amanda Payne , who was the daughter of Daniel and Margaret.
This coverlet has no center seam, indicating that Goodman was using a broad loom to weave his coverlets and was possibly involved in early factory production in Luzerne County. Daniel Goodman was from family of Pennsylvania coverlet weavers. His father, Peter (b. 1783) was also a weaver as was Daniel’s son, John S. Goodman (b. 1820). Daniel Goodman’s extant coverlets date from 1841-1844. Daniel had presumably been weaving twenty years prior, but may not have been able to invest in new pattern weaving technology until the 1840s. Rather than being able to order equipment, patented loom technology was sold via licensing and franchise agreements with the patent holder(s).
Mrs. Louise Abigail Richard Maxey (1845-1929) of Franklin County, Virginia wove this red, white, and blue “Monk’s Belt”, overshot coverlet at the age of 17 in 1860. The coverlet measures 93.5 inches by 61 inches and was constructed from two panels seamed up the center.
This double-woven geometric coverlet features a diamond centerfield and border with elaborate fringe. Woven in Andalusia, Spain in the early decades of the 19th century with pink and red yarns, this coverlet is composed of two sections with center seam. The long, elaborate fringe is attached to the coverlet body via a woven tape which gives the bottom corners a rounded appearance. The centerfield and deep border patterns are geometric and diamond in nature and evocative of Moorish-influenced, Southern Spanish tastes.
The yarns are all either S-spun wool singles in pink and red or three-ply, S-twist, Z-spun unbleached cotton. Curator emerita, Rita Androsko acquired this piece from French textile curator, Jean Pilisi in the 1960s when the National Museum of American History was the Museum of Art and Industry. This Spanish, Jacquard-woven coverlet was collected as a rare example of international coverlet weaving and as a piece for comparative study with the growing American coverlet collection.
This red, white, and blue, multi-harness coverlet features what has come to be known as the "star and diamond" pattern. This particular pattern was woven on a 14-shaft loom. Some of the variations of this star-work required eighteen shafts. The coverlet was loaned to the museum in the 1930s and later donated in the 1970s. Mrs. John H. Murray purchased the coverlet in Frederick, MD with green stamps, and there may be a Maryland connection with production of this coverlet; however, known weaver’s pattern books tend to all be focused on Southeastern Pennsylvania. Famous pattern books created by weavers like Jacob Angstadt, John Landes, and NMAH’s own pattern book by Peter Stauffer all contain variations of these multi-harness patterns. The coverlet was woven in two pieces and the pattern does not quite match up at the center seam. Whether this is due to shrinkage from improper washing or from uneven beating on the loom remains to be determined. There are remnants of a self-fringe along the sides that has worn away and both the top and bottom edge of the coverlet are hemmed with a simple rolled hem. The coverlet is composed of what appears to be a 3-ply cotton warp and a 2-ply or single of natural cotton for the weft.
Overshot coverlet, blue and white. Pattern "Cups and Saucer" or "Wheel of Fortune" design. Yarns: fine singles white cotton ground warp and fill. Indigo wool singles pattern, woven in 2 sections; has been cut all sides.
Weavers at the Lancaster Carpet, Coverlet, Quilt, and Yarn Manufactory likely wove this all-wool, mulberry and olive green, Figured and Fancy, double cloth coverlet in Lancaster City, Pennsylvania sometime between 1856 and 1880. There is a large central medallion composed of a starburst at the center surrounded by a floral wreath and garland of ivy. The ground is composed of a triangle design. There are borders on all four sides made up of floral urns, grape vines, and depictions of the U.S. Capitol. Each of the four corners contains an eight-pedaled floral design associated with Philip Schum’s manufactory. There is no center seam, indicating that this coverlet was woven on a broadloom and likely a power loom. There is no fringe. The coverlet is in overall poor condition and there are large sections of loss and the hems have come undone. Philip Schum (1814-1880) was born in Hesse-Darmstadt, Germany. Schum immigrated to the United States with his first wife, Ana Margartha Bond in the 1830s, settling first in New York City where he worked as a malt tramper. The family soon moved to Lancaster County where Schum worked as a shoemaker and basket maker. Schum purchased a general store in 1852, and by 1856 he had become successful enough to sell the business and start the Lancaster Carpet, Coverlet, Quilt, and Yarn Manufactory. Schum expanded his business exponentially over the ensuing decades growing from four employee to over forty. He and his second wife, Anna Margaret Koch were killed by a train in their carriage in 1880. Schum’s sons took over the business which remained successful until the 1920s. There is no evidence that Schum was ever trained as a weaver.
Blue and white, wool and cotton double-woven geometric coverlet. Self fringe on three edges, fourth edge is hemmed. Double-woven geometric single snowball pattern. The coverlet belonged to the grandmother of donor Margaret Murray.
NB - THE PICTURE ATTACHED TO THIS FILE IS NOT T13524.