A sample length of a Goodall-Sanford Inc. fall weight suiting fabric, trademarked name "Good-All-Year"; A blend of wool, rayon, and nylon developed for warmer homes, offices, and automobiles.. A tweed-like weave in black and gray.
Part of a gift of 14 fabric samples and 11 fiber samples by Goodall-Sanford Inc., Sanford, Maine, to illustrate "Fiber Blending for Better Performance", in September 1951. The Goodall Worsted Company (maker of the mohair and cotton blend fabric "Palm Beach Cloth"), and the Sanford Mills (maker of mohair and wool velvets, plushes, and imitation fur fabrics) merged in 1944 to form Goodall-Sanford Inc. Palm Beach cloth was a menswear summer staple, and was one of the first fabrics considered "easy-care", although both its components were natural fibers. This donation illustrates some of the company's other efforts at blending fibers, in this case natural and synthetic blends. Goodall-Sanford's sales headquarters were at 545 Madison Avenue, NY 22, NY.
Selvage width sample length of printed rayon Shantung. 39" Wide. Medium weight plain weave of viscose filament rayon. White pattern against a blue ground. Small 'arrow and target' motifs in a dense, tossed layout, nondirectional repeat.
Rayon fabrics played a large part in both military and civilian products during World War II, as shortages of other fibers made it essential to replace cotton, silk, and wool with rayon (regenerated cellulose) whenever possible.
One of 17 fabric samples donated to the museum in 1942, along with a display illustrating the manufacture of rayon goods from wood to finished product. The display is held by the Division of Work & Industry, catalog # AG.A.7060
Selvage width sample length of printed rayon "French Crepe". 39" wide. Medium weight plain weave woven of viscose filament rayon yarns. Printed with a floral stripe pattern in red, yellow, black, white, and green.
Rayon fabrics played a large part in both military and civilian products during World War II, as shortages of other fibers made it essential to replace cotton, silk, and wool with rayon (regenerated cellulose) whenever possible.
One of 17 fabric samples donated to the museum in 1942, along with a display illustrating the manufacture of rayon goods from wood to finished product. The display is held by the Division of Work & Industry, catalog # AG.A.7060
A length of lightweight satin-weave silk, printed with a modernist design of of flower heads and leaves on a purple ground. Ground cloth is satin weave silk, light but having more body than charmeuse. The floral design has a 'stencil' effect, with each element separate from the others and outlined in solid black. Fauve-inspired colors are bright green, magenta, yellow, and medium brown with black. T1033,1034,and 1035 are colorways of the same design.
Part of a large donation of fibers, yarns, fabrics, original designs, and printing tools given by Cheney Brothers, one of the earliest and largest of America's silk manufacturers, in 1913.
A sample length of Cheney Brothers "Printed Frisons" dress silk, 1913. Pinkish-tan ground of slubbed (spun silk yarns) plain weave silk, printed with a closely spaced modernist design of irregular multi-colored spots. Fauve-inspired print colors are dark green, orange, yellow, medium green, medium blue, light blue, dark red, Some colors may be due to overprinting one shade with another. File gives fabric width as 30", with a donation of a full yard length. Cheney's numbers are: Com: 3755; No: 77357, Color: 3724/1 Part of a large donation of fibers, yarns, fabrics, original designs, and printing tools given by Cheney Brothers, one of the earliest and largest of America's silk manufacturers, in 1913.
A length of lightweight satin-weave silk, printed with a design of naively drawn flower sprigs on a red ground dotted with small irregularly drawn circles. Ground cloth is satin weave silk, light but having more body than charmeuse. The stylized modernist floral design has a 'Martine School' effect, with simplified motifs outlined in black, and very bright, Fauve-inspired coloring. Colors are bright green, magenta, yellow, and blue with black on red. T1041 and T1043 are colorways of the same design, titled "Bulgarian" by the manufacturer..
Part of a large donation of fibers, yarns, fabrics, original designs, and printing tools given by Cheney Brothers, one of the earliest and largest of America's silk manufacturers, in 1913.
A length of J.A. Migel, Inc .silk and artificial silk dress goods "Fan-Ta-Si". Novelty crepe woven with a metallic like surface effect created by narrow warpwise irregular stripes of yellow threads. Woven with a silk warp and double filling: one of tightly twisted silk, the other of artificial silk singles. The length has significant discoloration throughout the wrong side that features light yellow or pink striped splotches instead of the dark salmon color. Julius A. Migel was a younger brother of Moses Charles Migel, founder of M.C. Migel & Co., Inc, silk manufacturer, renamed H.R. Mallinson & Co., Inc. in 1915. Mallinson, married to Linda Migel, had taken over as the president of M.C. Migel & Co. after his brother-in-law had retired. J.A. Migel was very briefly a partner with H.R. Mallinson, but left the firm in 1915 to form his own, eponymous, silk manufacturing concern. J.A. Migel used many of the marketing tools that his brother and H.R. Mallinson had succeeded with, but his company lasted only a few years.
Scientists began looking for a manufactured fiber to compete with wool in the 19th century. The first useful fiber was introduced by Snia Viscosa at the 1939 World Fair in New York. The fiber was known as Lanital, and was made from the casein milk. While the Italians were working on Lantial, American chemists at National Dairy Corporation and the United States Department of Agriculture, were working on a similar fiber. The American version was known as Aralac, and was produced by Atlanta Research Associates, a Division of National Diary Corporation. Aralac and Lanital were not inteded to be cheap replacements for wool, rather they were to be high fashion fibers in competition with wool. During WWII there was little wool fabric available for the civilian population, so Aralac was blended with rayon and actate and used in its place. Although the fabric performed well, it strength and abrasion resisteance were low. The production of Aralac stopped in 1948, as National Dairy found other more lucrative uses for casein. These fabrics was made in 1943, of yarns containing Aralac, rayon, and acetate. The large cluster on the left is undyed Aralac fiber.
Sample length of Goodall-Sanford Inc. commercial-use upholstery fabric in blue, using wool, mohair, and vicara. Commercial upholstery requires a completely different blending of fibers than that in home-use upholstery.
Part of a gift of 14 fabric samples and 11 fiber samples by Goodall-Sanford Inc., Sanford, Maine, to illustrate "Fiber Blending for Better Performance", in September 1951. The Goodall Worsted Company (maker of the mohair and cotton blend fabric "Palm Beach Cloth"), and the Sanford Mills (maker of mohair and wool velvets, plushes, and imitation fur fabrics) merged in 1944 to form Goodall-Sanford Inc. Palm Beach cloth was a menswear summer staple, and was one of the first fabrics considered "easy-care", although both its components were natural fibers. This donation illustrates some of the company's other efforts at blending fibers, in this case natural and synthetic blends. Goodall-Sanford's sales headquarters were at 545 Madison Avenue, NY 22, NY.
A sample length of a Goodall-Sanford Inc., men's sport coat fabric, "Resortweave"; an authentic British pattern in light blue, tan, and white, translated into a lightweight fiber blend of wool, rayon, and nylon for the American climate.
Part of a gift of 14 fabric samples and 11 fiber samples by Goodall-Sanford Inc., Sanford, Maine, to illustrate "Fiber Blending for Better Performance", in September 1951. The Goodall Worsted Company (maker of the mohair and cotton blend fabric "Palm Beach Cloth"), and the Sanford Mills (maker of mohair and wool velvets, plushes, and imitation fur fabrics) merged in 1944 to form Goodall-Sanford Inc. Palm Beach cloth was a menswear summer staple, and was one of the first fabrics considered "easy-care", although both its components were natural fibers. This donation illustrates some of the company's other efforts at blending fibers, in this case natural and synthetic blends. Goodall-Sanford's sales headquarters were at 545 Madison Avenue, NY 22, NY.
A sample length of a Goodall-Sanford Inc., men's summer suiting, "Palm Beach". A blend of rayon, mohair and nylon fibers; structure similar to a "houndstooth" check in blue, black, and white.
Part of a gift of 14 fabric samples and 11 fiber samples by Goodall-Sanford Inc., Sanford, Maine, to illustrate "Fiber Blending for Better Performance", in September 1951. The Goodall Worsted Company (maker of the mohair and cotton blend fabric "Palm Beach Cloth"), and the Sanford Mills (maker of mohair and wool velvets, plushes, and imitation fur fabrics) merged in 1944 to form Goodall-Sanford Inc. Palm Beach cloth was a menswear summer staple, and was one of the first fabrics considered "easy-care", although both its components were natural fibers. This donation illustrates some of the company's other efforts at blending fibers, in this case natural and synthetic blends. Goodall-Sanford's sales headquarters were at 545 Madison Avenue, NY 22, NY.
Sample length of Goodall-Sanford Inc., women's Palm Beach suiting, 1951. Summer weight suiting in mohair and rayon, in a light aqua color, styled for women.
Part of a gift of 14 fabric samples and 11 fiber samples by Goodall-Sanford Inc., Sanford, Maine, to illustrate "Fiber Blending for Better Performance", in September 1951. The Goodall Worsted Company (maker of the mohair and cotton blend fabric "Palm Beach Cloth"), and the Sanford Mills (maker of mohair and wool velvets, plushes, and imitation fur fabrics) merged in 1944 to form Goodall-Sanford Inc. Palm Beach cloth was a menswear summer staple, and was one of the first fabrics considered "easy-care", although both its components were natural fibers. This donation illustrates some of the company's other efforts at blending fibers, in this case natural and synthetic blends. Goodall-Sanford's sales headquarters were at 545 Madison Avenue, NY 22, NY.
Sample length of Goodall-Sanford Inc. lightweight suiting known as "Springweave"; Tropical weight suiting fabric made of unique blend of wool, mohair, rayon, and nylon. Very narrow woven stripe pattern in black and gray.
Part of a gift of 14 fabric samples and 11 fiber samples by Goodall-Sanford Inc., Sanford, Maine, to illustrate "Fiber Blending for Better Performance", in September 1951. The Goodall Worsted Company (maker of the mohair and cotton blend fabric "Palm Beach Cloth"), and the Sanford Mills (maker of mohair and wool velvets, plushes, and imitation fur fabrics) merged in 1944 to form Goodall-Sanford Inc. Palm Beach cloth was a menswear summer staple, and was one of the first fabrics considered "easy-care", although both its components were natural fibers. This donation illustrates some of the company's other efforts at blending fibers, in this case natural and synthetic blends. Goodall-Sanford's sales headquarters were at 545 Madison Avenue, NY 22, NY.
Sample length of Goodall-Sanford Inc. upholstery and/or drapery fabric; 1951. A medium blue shade, in a blend of cotton, rayon and mohair used to provide texture interest and richer colors.
Part of a gift of 14 fabric samples and 11 fiber samples by Goodall-Sanford Inc., Sanford, Maine, to illustrate "Fiber Blending for Better Performance", in September 1951. The Goodall Worsted Company (maker of the mohair and cotton blend fabric "Palm Beach Cloth"), and the Sanford Mills (maker of mohair and wool velvets, plushes, and imitation fur fabrics) merged in 1944 to form Goodall-Sanford Inc. Palm Beach cloth was a menswear summer staple, and was one of the first fabrics considered "easy-care", although both its components were natural fibers. This donation illustrates some of the company's other efforts at blending fibers, in this case natural and synthetic blends. Goodall-Sanford's sales headquarters were at 545 Madison Avenue, NY 22, NY.
Sample length of Goodall-Sanford, Inc. women's coating fabric, undyed and unbleached, natural color; 1951. Wool and mohair blend adds resilience, durability, and lustre to this fabric meant for women's coats.
Part of a gift of 14 fabric samples and 11 fiber samples by Goodall-Sanford Inc., Sanford, Maine, to illustrate "Fiber Blending for Better Performance", in September 1951. The Goodall Worsted Company (maker of the mohair and cotton blend fabric "Palm Beach Cloth"), and the Sanford Mills (maker of mohair and wool velvets, plushes, and imitation fur fabrics) merged in 1944 to form Goodall-Sanford Inc. Palm Beach cloth was a menswear summer staple, and was one of the first fabrics considered "easy-care", although both its components were natural fibers. This donation illustrates some of the company's other efforts at blending fibers, in this case natural and synthetic blends. Goodall-Sanford's sales headquarters were at 545 Madison Avenue, NY 22, NY.
Sample length of Goodall-Sanford Inc. necktie fabric; 1951. A woven check pattern in blue, white, and black; using a blend of rayon, mohair, and nylon with a fine combed cotton that imparts added strength and crispness to this tie fabric.
Part of a gift of 14 fabric samples and 11 fiber samples by Goodall-Sanford Inc., Sanford, Maine, to illustrate "Fiber Blending for Better Performance", in September 1951. The Goodall Worsted Company (maker of the mohair and cotton blend fabric "Palm Beach Cloth"), and the Sanford Mills (maker of mohair and wool velvets, plushes, and imitation fur fabrics) merged in 1944 to form Goodall-Sanford Inc. Palm Beach cloth was a menswear summer staple, and was one of the first fabrics considered "easy-care", although both its components were natural fibers. This donation illustrates some of the company's other efforts at blending fibers, in this case natural and synthetic blends. Goodall-Sanford's sales headquarters were at 545 Madison Avenue, NY 22, NY.
Sample length of Goodall-Sanford Inc., fabric for automotive upholstery; Dark blue, in a blend of rayon, cotton, wool, and mohair. This kind of fabric gets hard wear and requires "slide-abiity" and specially developed blends of fibres.
Part of a gift of 14 fabric samples and 11 fiber samples by Goodall-Sanford Inc., Sanford, Maine, to illustrate "Fiber Blending for Better Performance", in September 1951. The Goodall Worsted Company (maker of the mohair and cotton blend fabric "Palm Beach Cloth"), and the Sanford Mills (maker of mohair and wool velvets, plushes, and imitation fur fabrics) merged in 1944 to form Goodall-Sanford Inc. Palm Beach cloth was a menswear summer staple, and was one of the first fabrics considered "easy-care", although both its components were natural fibers. This donation illustrates some of the company's other efforts at blending fibers, in this case natural and synthetic blends. Goodall-Sanford's sales headquarters were at 545 Madison Avenue, NY 22, NY.
Sample length of Goodall-Sanford Inc., 'Casement cloth' fabric; in light gray. 1951. This blend of cotton and mohair was said by the manufacturer to provide "richly simple, dust shedding, casement curtains." Casement curtains, also known as 'glass curtains' were used under draperies or on their own to let in light while providing privacy.
Part of a gift of 14 fabric samples and 11 fiber samples by Goodall-Sanford Inc., Sanford, Maine, to illustrate "Fiber Blending for Better Performance", in September 1951. The Goodall Worsted Company (maker of the mohair and cotton blend fabric "Palm Beach Cloth"), and the Sanford Mills (maker of mohair and wool velvets, plushes, and imitation fur fabrics) merged in 1944 to form Goodall-Sanford Inc. Palm Beach cloth was a menswear summer staple, and was one of the first fabrics considered "easy-care", although both its components were natural fibers. This donation illustrates some of the company's other efforts at blending fibers, in this case natural and synthetic blends. Goodall-Sanford's sales headquarters were at 545 Madison Avenue, NY 22, NY.
Sample length of a Goodall-Sanford Inc., drapery fabric; 1951. A High style drapery fabric combining rayon, cotton, and mohair in dark blue and black with gold metallic yarns (Lurex), in a plaid pattern. [NB: Noted American textile designer Dorothy Liebes designed drapery and furnishing fabrics using Lurex from the late 1940s, including many plaids - this should be checked against her known designs.]
Part of a gift of 14 fabric samples and 11 fiber samples by Goodall-Sanford Inc., Sanford, Maine, to illustrate "Fiber Blending for Better Performance", in September 1951. The Goodall Worsted Company (maker of the mohair and cotton blend fabric "Palm Beach Cloth"), and the Sanford Mills (maker of mohair and wool velvets, plushes, and imitation fur fabrics) merged in 1944 to form Goodall-Sanford Inc. Palm Beach cloth was a menswear summer staple, and was one of the first fabrics considered "easy-care", although both its components were natural fibers. This donation illustrates some of the company's other efforts at blending fibers, in this case natural and synthetic blends. Goodall-Sanford's sales headquarters were at 545 Madison Avenue, NY 22, NY.
Sample length of Goodall-Sanford Inc. "High style" upholstery fabric developed by adding gold metalic yarns, "Lurex" to this blue ground rayon, wool, and cotton blend fabric. Lurex is a brand name for metallic yarns, produced since 1946 by the Lurex Division of the Dobeckmun Co.Cleveland (later a division of Dow), and its successors, currently (2019) the Lurex Company Ltd. Lurex is a metalized polyester film. Goodall-Sanford probably purchased the Lurex from Dobeckmun or perhaps a licensee; Goodall did not manufacture Lurex.
Part of a gift of 14 fabric samples and 11 fiber samples by Goodall-Sanford Inc., Sanford, Maine, to illustrate "Fiber Blending for Better Performance", in September 1951. The Goodall Worsted Company (maker of the mohair and cotton blend fabric "Palm Beach Cloth"), and the Sanford Mills (maker of mohair and wool velvets, plushes, and imitation fur fabrics) merged in 1944 to form Goodall-Sanford Inc. Palm Beach cloth was a menswear summer staple, and was one of the first fabrics considered "easy-care", although both its components were natural fibers. This donation illustrates some of the company's other efforts at blending fibers, in this case natural and synthetic blends. Goodall-Sanford's sales headquarters were at 545 Madison Avenue, NY 22, NY.
