Henry Leavitt Ellsworth brought this notebook of sample fabrics from an East Coast manufacturer to Fort Gibson, Oklahoma, during his time as part of the Stokes Commission from 1832 until 1834. The Indian Removal Act of 1830 forced southeastern tribes to the Indian Territory in the West, and Fort Gibson became the home of the commission, whose goal was to pacify the indigenous tribes and create treaties between new tribes during their forced migration.
Ellsworth explained the books contents on the first page, “The annexed samples were cut from large samples and promised at the manufacturers in the East. These prices are fixed by the manufacturers themselves. A sutler at this post Wm. West has kindly given the prices as sold at this garrison. In the interior they are much higher.” The book was believed to have been assembled to support a bill in front of Congress regulating trade with the Indians. As outlined in the book, cloth sold to the Indians was sold at anywhere between a 48% and 180% markup—one of many unfair trade practices between the settlers and Native Americans. The Ellsworth report used this as an example of the need for regulation to prevent traders from taking advantage of the Native Americans with the prospect of a booming population due to forced migration. The book itself contains fifty samples of eleven different fabric types.
This needle lace table runner illustrates scenes from the Bayeux Tapestry. Scenes before, during and after the Battle of Hastings, England, in 1066 between Harold and William the Conqueror are depicted along the sides and ends of this nine meter long cloth. It might have been commissioned for the banquet table in one of the numerous grand mansions built in the USA early in the 1900’s. The Melville and Ziffer lace workshop in Le Puy, France, exhibited an almost identical table runner at the 1906 Paris World Exhibition.