Cheney Brothers Second draft frisons. Silk. On wooden rods (5 rods, 29-3/4 in. L) Part of gift illustrating all the steps in making silk textiles at the Cheney Brothers mill in South Manchester, CT. Sales offices: 4th Ave. and 18th St., New York City
Grant silk reel; Cheney Brothers, ca. 1882. Machine for reeling silk, invented by James Munroe Grant, while employed at the Cheney Brothers silk mill in Hartford, CT. The Grant reel wound the silk in a crisscross pattern, rather than in parallel lines or spirals. This reduced snarling and increased efficiency and productivity. The Grant reel was an important innovation for silk manufacturing and was used around the world.
Painted design in three sheets for a printed satin - original design for fabrics T.1041-1043, titled "Bulgarian". Cheney Brothers, 1913. 3 sheets. Com. 4454; Style 3670/4; No. 536. First pencil drawing from "Bulgarian" design; depicting a floral motif and circular shapes incorporated in the design. The top left, top right and bottom left corners are rounded. "1039" written in pencil, in a rectangle in the top left corner. Words written in pencil near the top edge. Other words written in pencil near the center. "19 x 26" written in the bottom right corner. "T1039A" written on the bottom right corner of the verso.
Cheney Brothers silk and worsted wool bengaline fabric sample. A process sample; Woven in the gum from Italian reeled silk warp and 3/75 gassed worsted weft. Ribbed warp-faced plain weave in off-white,undyed, as it came from the loom. Fabric has some holes and shattering throughout. (W. 24 in., L. 36 in.)
Cheney Brothers printed satin, "Bulgarian", 1913. Printed on dark blue. 24" W by 72" L. Manufacturer's numbers: Com.2588; Lot M53; Color 2462/9 . A length of lightweight satin-weave silk, printed with a stylized modernist design of of flower heads and leaves in Fauve-inspired colors on a dark blue ground. Ground cloth is satin weave silk, light but having more body than charmeuse. The floral design has a 'stencil' effect, with each element separate from the others and outlined in solid black. T1033,1034,and 1035 are colorways of the same design. Part of a large donation of fibers, yarns, fabrics, original designs, and printing tools given by Cheney Brothers, one of the earliest and largest of America's silk manufacturers, in 1913.
Cheney Brothers Fifth draft frisons. Silk. On wooden rods (5 rods, 29-3/4 in. L) Part of gift illustrating all the steps in making silk textiles at the Cheney Brothers mill in South Manchester, CT. Sales offices: 4th Ave. and 18th St., New York City
A length of Cheney Brothers warp-printed furnishing fabric, 1913. Design in predominantly blue, beige, and black, with a smallish, densely packed, jacquard woven repeat design of floral motifs with Chinoiserie elements, such as cloud scrolls and vases; a hazy color block effect underlying the woven pattern, created by the use of a printed warp. Made with two warps, one printed before weaving, and one plain, with 1 7/8 yards of warp attached at one end in order to show the appearance of the warp before woven into the goods. The CB logo is woven in to the opposite end. Mfrs. #s: Com. 4918; No. 79079; Color 3468/27. A full selvage width.
Man's silk crepe faille scarf or necktie. Fabric is printed with an allover repeating pattern of stylized plant forms in greens, browns and bits of pink. 1913 The original cataloging distinguishes men's neckties, scarves, and cravats: this is categorized as a scarf, according to the usage of the time of donation. Unlined. Cut on the bias, shaped with pointed ends, one end wider than the other, and sewn. .
Man's silk scarf (neckwear); Cheney Brothers, red silk warp-faced plain weave with a pronounced crosswise rib; called Ottoman, 1913. Moire finish (also called watered effect, done by folding and pressing the fabric, which flattens the ribs against each other and creates a repeating wavy effect, or can also be done by simply embossing an engraved design on the surface of the fabric). One piece, cut on the bias, shaped with pointed ends, wider at one end than the other, and sewn. Unlined. Solid red moire.
Original Design for "Bulgarian" printed satin, Cheney Brothers, 1913. Fabrics in NMAH collection, T 1041-1043. Modernist floral, inspired by Fauve coloring and European modernist styling.
Men's silk pocket handkerchief, All silk plain weave, with 2 sides hemmed and 2 sides selvage. Plain white with a lavender striped border. Gift of Cheney Brothers, Setp. 22, 1921. Original number 3059.
Man's silk muffler; Gift of Cheney Brothers; Sept. 22, 1921. Fancy accordion weave, woven in tubular form; ornamented with two satin weave warp stripes. The two ends are finished with fringe. Original number 3081. Colors: Variegated and black.
Silk yarn sample card; Cheney Bros., Connecticut; 1913. Shows raw silks, trams, and organzines in the gum and dyed. The yarns are for weaving and not embroidery.
Man's silk muffler; Gift of Cheney Brothers; Sept. 22, 1921. Plain accordion weave, woven in tubular form; with 3 weft stripes forming a border on the ends, and finished with fringe. Original number 4747. Colors: black and white.
A length of Cheney Brothers all-silk dress velvet, "Velours Chiffon" in golden yellow. A solid cut pile fabric with a soft hand. Short cut pile in silk against a plain weave silk ground that is more densely woven than a true chiffon. Original cataloging: Piece dyed organzine pile fabric #15b, with ground warp and filling of organzine silk. Used for dresses, cloaks, wraps, etc. Color:#6480 Citron (yellow). Wholesale $6.00 per yard.
Cheney Brothers printed satin dress silk, "Bulgarian", 1913. A length of lightweight satin-weave silk, printed with a stylized modernist design of of flower heads and leaves in Fauve-inspired colors on a French blue ground. Ground cloth is satin weave silk, light but having more body than charmeuse. The floral design has a 'stencil' effect, with each element separate from the others and outlined in solid black. Colors are bright green, magenta, yellow, and medium brown with black on light blue. Mfrs numbers are : Com-5001; No. 71748; Color 3703/3. T1033,1034,and 1035 are colorways of the same design. Part of a large donation of fibers, yarns, fabrics, original designs, and printing tools given by Cheney Brothers, one of the earliest and largest of America's silk manufacturers, in 1913.
Pair of man's silk and worsted machine-knitted socks; Made with black worsted and white silk in a heather mixture. Size No. 11; Original number 3070. Example of Cheney Brothers' efforts to meet the needs of many markets in the consumption of silk products - from fabrics of all kinds to finished goods. Gift of Cheney Brothers; Sept. 22, 1921.
