Two lengths of piece-dyed, solid color Pussy Willow silk fabric.."Pussy Willow" was a long standing H.R. Mallinson & Co. tradename for a soft drapey plain weave fabric. It was marketed as pure-dye and tub fast (washable). One piece in orange and a second in blue. Solid color coordinates for the print series based on the 1925 New York Zoological Society sponsored expedition to the Galapagos Islands. Drawings by artist Helen Tee Van, who accompanied the expedition (Captained by William Beebe), were used as the basis for a series of printed dress silks by Mallinson.
A length of all silk, radium like plain weave fabric, Mallinson's "Pussy Willow" silk; quality #5459-F. Piece-dyed gray - the dye used for this ground shade is of a different formula from that used for plain dyed fabrics in that it can be dischared or bleached out under certain conditions where it is not wanted. A process sample showing one aspect of the development of multi-color printing. This sample is from a group of six donated by the company to illustrate the discharge-printing process.
A sample piece of H.R. Mallinson's "Slendora Brocade" in a cross-dyed, two-toned, turquoise jacquard-woven medallion design. The cross-dyed (a form of resist-dyeing) "Slendora Brocade" was Jacquard woven in rayon for the weft figure; contrasting with the silk ground. There were two dyes are in the same bath, and each fiber resists the dye meant for the other fiber for which it has no chemical affinity, thereby enabling a two color effect in one operation. The selvage inscription on this textile length (Mallinson's Fabrics De Luxe) is the one Mallinson used for its products that were not all-silk after an early 1920s 'truth-in-advertising' furor over silk manufacturers using rayon (then artificial silk) in their products without informing consumers.
A length of H. R. Mallinson & Co.'s trade name "Orchid Tissue Velvet." This is a process sample, in the raw, partly cut, to illustrate the double woven velvet, with two ground cloths woven simultaneously, face to face, sharing a single rayon pile warp working between them and joining them, with 8/32 of an inch between them. As fast as this double cloth is woven, the pile warp is sliced through as the fabric comes off the loom by a knife attached to the loom, giving two separate lengths of velvet, each with a silk ground and a rayon pile measuring 4/32 of an inch.. The ground is an open mesh-like plain weave of Japan silk. The pile is rayon.
A length of printed Mallinson trade-name Pussy Willow silk, a soft, drapey, plain weave fabric. Manufacturer's numbers: #900/2304/3. Printed design of a large tropical moth that camouflages itself as a leaf, from the Beebe Expedition series. Colorway is shades of blue, yellow, and reddish brown with black, on a Bois de Rose (pinkish-brown) ground. The design, called the Beebe Bug, was taken from one of the sketches by Helen Tee Van, artist on the 1925 New York Zoological Society sponsored expedition to the Galapagos Islands and Sargasso Sea captained by William Beebe.
A length of printed Georgette Crepe. A thin sheer fabric dull in texture with a creped effect, Manufacturer numbers: quality #5721/ pattern 2210/ color 22. An engineered pattern repeating vertically along one edge, not quite across the width, of sea gulls flying in a dull orange and white. The design was introduced by H.R. Mallinson & Co. at the same time as, but perhaps not as part of, the "Beebe Expedition" print series.
Group of 20 Fancy Worsted fabric samples bound with black tape by machine. From the American Woolen Co., National & Providence Worsted Mills. All skein dyed; all worsted
Color: 1. Brown & Black; 2. Brown w/white pin stripe in chevron pattern; 3. Dk grey w/white pin stripe; 4,5 & 9-11, 14: Med grey w/white & black pinstripe; 6. Dk grey w/ white and black pinstripe; 7. Brown w/white & red pinstripe; 8. Navy w/white pinstripe in diagonal pattern; 12. Brown, black; 13. Black w/white pinstripe; 15. Navy w/red pinstripe; 16. Navy; 17. Grey; 18. Black w/white pinstripe; 19. Navy w/white pinstripe; 20. Black w/ dk.grey & white pinstripe.
Manufactured by the National and Providence Woolen Mills, Providence, RI.
The Providence and National Worsted Mills, founded in Rhode Island in the 1870s, were originally two companies owned by Charles Fletcher, one a spinning and one a weaving mill for working with worsted yarns. Fletcher amalgamated the two companies into one in 1893, and then sold this company to the large Lawrence-based American Woolen Company in 1899. When the Lawrence mill workers struck against pay cuts in 1912 (the Bread and Roses strike), the American Woolen Company was one of the firms affected. The Rhode Island mills, however, did not strike.
14 samples of woven wool fabrics, bound with black tape by machine stitching. Woolen/Worsted wool suitings and coatings, manufactured by American Woolen Company's "National and Providence Worsted Mills" in Providence, Rhode Island. COLORS: 1. Brown, 2. Black, 3. Brown, 4. Brown/Black, 5. Dk grey, 6. Lt grey w/white pin stripe, 7. Black, 8..Dk grey, 9..Black w/red pin stripe, 10..Brown w/black pin stripe, 11. Very dk blue, 12. Greys, 13. Grey w/black diagonal stripe, 14. Brown
These samples were woven by workers at the American Woolen Company's Providence, Rhode Island mill (The National and Providence Worsted Mills) at about the time the Lawrence Textile Strike (also known as the Bread and Roses strike) was taking place. American Woolen Company also owned the Washington Mill, Wood Mill, and Ayer Mill in Lawrence, Massachusetts, where workers were active in the strike..
Manufactured by the National and Providence Worsted Mills, Providence, RI. The Providence and National Worsted Mills, founded in Rhode Island in the 1870s, were originally two companies owned by Charles Fletcher, one a spinning and one a weaving mill for working with worsted yarns. Fletcher amalgamated the two companies into one in 1893, and then sold this company to the large Lawrence-based American Woolen Company in 1899. When the Lawrence mill workers struck against pay cuts in 1912 (the Bread and Roses strike), the American Woolen Company was one of the firms affected. The Rhode Island mills, however, did not strike.
A length of Mallinson's rayon pile silk ground transparent velvet fabric: "Orchid tissue Velvet". Sheer, almost transparent, plain weave fabric having a Japan silk base and rayon pile. Piece dyed in solid colors. This example dyed tan. Other samples: T05751.A (black) and T05751.B.(beige). Mfr's quality # 159. This color is mfr # 6253. Transparent velvet was a marketing name beginning in the 1920s for a solid cut pile woven on a sheer ground, giving a very soft hand. Transparent velvets were also usually rayon pile on a silk ground..
A sample strip of piece dyed fabric "Pussy Willow Silk". Solid color coordinate to Mallinson's Playgrounds of the World series of printed dress silks. Pussy Willow was one of the Mallinson firm's longest lasting and most popular trade name fabric qualities. It is a fine. soft,plain weave fabric of a type known at the time as " radium". Pussy Willow was guranteed to be pure-dye and tub-fast, or washable without losing color. This is one of the beige samples, one of 6 solid color samples of Pussy Willow that coordinate with the print designs for the Playgrounds of the World series.
6 samples - Grey #124; green #906; beige #4889;(2 pieces); straw #6133; old ivory #10511
A sample piece of H.R. Mallinson's "Slendora Brocade" in a two-tone, cross-dyed brown jacquard-woven medallion stripe design. Two shades of brown, one for the rayon pattern and one for the silk ground. The manufacturer's numbers are 4019/8528; color 1211. The cross-dyed (a form of resist-dyeing) "Slendora Brocade" was Jacquard woven in rayon for the weft figure; contrasting with the silk ground. There were two dyes are in the same bath, and each fiber resists the dye meant for the other fiber for which it has no chemical affinity, thereby enabling a two color effect in one operation. The selvage inscription on this textile length (Mallinson's Fabrics De Luxe) is the one Mallinson used for its products that were not all-silk after an early 1920s 'truth-in-advertising' furor over silk manufacturers using rayon (then artificial silk) in their products without informing consumers.
H.R. Mallinson & Co. warp-printed taffeta process sample. A section of partly woven printed warp. Full width sample of printed warp which has been partly woven and shows 8 inches of the taffeta fabric with its detached floral motif. Colors: yellow, cerise, purple, green. Two identical samples, A is 16 1/2" L x 25" W; B is 16 1/2" L x 12 1/2" W.
A sample piece of H.R. Mallinson's "Slendora Brocade" in an cross-dyed, two-toned orange jacquard-woven meandering leafy stem design. Two shades of orange, one for the rayon pattern and one for the silk ground. The manufacturer's numbers are 4019/8188; color 1386. The cross-dyed (a form of resist-dyeing) "Slendora Brocade" was Jacquard woven in rayon for the weft figure; contrasting with the silk ground. There were two dyes are in the same bath, and each fiber resists the dye meant for the other fiber for which it has no chemical affinity, thereby enabling a two color effect in one operation. The selvage inscription on this textile length (Mallinson's Fabrics De Luxe) is the one Mallinson used for its products that were not all-silk after an early 1920s 'truth-in-advertising' furor over silk manufacturers using rayon (then artificial silk) in their products without informing consumers.
A sample piece of H.R. Mallinson's "Slendora Brocade" in a cross-dyed brown and off-white (or yellowish) jacquard-woven stylized scrolling leaf design, against a net-like or hexagonal grid ground pattern. The manufacturer's numbers are 4361/7025. The cross-dyed (a form of resist-dyeing) "Slendora Brocade" was Jacquard woven in rayon for the weft figure; contrasting with the silk ground. There were two dyes are in the same bath, and each fiber resists the dye meant for the other fiber for which it has no chemical affinity, thereby enabling a two color effect in one operation. The selvage inscription on this textile length (Mallinson's Fabrics De Luxe) is the one Mallinson used for its products that were not all-silk after an early 1920s 'truth-in-advertising' furor over silk manufacturers using rayon (then artificial silk) in their products without informing consumers.
A length of M. C. Migel & Co., Inc. "Ad Hoc" printed "Pussy Willow" Taffeta Brocade. Pure-dye, piece dyed, satin brocade taffeta, over printed by "Ad Hoc " process; first example of use in the U.S.
Warp float patterned jacquard woven floral with over-printed design of rose stems. 4 colorways of same design (T1449,T1450,T1451,T1452);. This colorway has a dark blue ground with flowers in pinks, oranges, reds, yellows, greens, and light blue accent.
M.C. Migel & Co., which in 1915 became H.R. Mallinson & Co., Inc., was known for innovation in silk design and silk manufacturing technology.
A length of MC Migel & Co., Inc. "Ad Hoc" printed "Pussy Willow" taffeta with warp float jacquard floral patterning . Pure-dye, piece dyed, satin patterned taffeta, over printed by "Ad Hoc" process; first example of use in the U.S.
Dark green ground with woven floral, printed floral sprig design in peach, orange, yellow, browns, and blue-gray. Same design as T1446,T1447, T1448; 4 different colorways. "Ad Hoc" printing was defined as block-printing in colors on a jacquard woven ground. M.C. Migel & Co., which in 1915 became H.R. Mallinson & Co., Inc., was known for innovation in silk design and silk manufacturing technology.
A sample strip of piece dyed fabric "Pussy Willow Silk". Solid color coordinate to Mallinson's Playgrounds of the World series of printed dress silks. Pussy Willow was one of the Mallinson firm's longest lasting and most popular trade name fabric qualities. It is a fine. soft,plain weave fabric of a type known at the time as " radium". Pussy Willow was guranteed to be pure-dye and tub-fast, or washable without losing color. This is the "straw" (light beige) sample, one of 6 solid color samples of Pussy Willow that coordinate with the print designs for the Playgrounds of the World series.
6 samples - Grey #124; green #906; beige #4889;(2 pieces); straw #6133; old ivory #10511
An H.R. Mallinson & Co. Art Deco style screen-printed silk crepe shawl. An all silk, medium weight crepe fabric (quality # 4571); with a screen printed border design (pattern # 5215) similar to catalog # TE*T05760, but developed in white on a tan ground, with the two band borders in black and cerise (red). Colorway # 3. The design is engineered to show best on a diagonally folded shawl; it covers one corner and two sides. It is a large scale floral and leaf pattern with stylized Art Deco flower heads. The tan ground color seems fugitive - the color is streaky and has faded in spots and streaks across the shawl. One of a group of five screen-printed silk crepe shawls given by the Mallinson firm in 1928 to illustrate their early use of this new printing technique in industrial production.
Section of printed silk warp. The warp ends are laid parallel to form a band 16" wide, upon which is printed a scattered floral motif. Given by H.R. Mallinson & Co. to illustrate the process of making a warp-printed silk. The characteristic 'water-color' or 'fuzzy' edges of a finished textile in which the design is printed on the warp threads before weaving is most prominent in plain woven fabrics. Another example donated by the company (T0567.A and .B) have plain woven bands with the printed warps extending below, to show the process more clearly.
A sample strip of piece dyed fabric "Pussy Willow Silk". Solid color coordinate to Mallinson's Playgrounds of the World series of printed dress silks. Pussy Willow was one of the Mallinson firm's longest lasting and most popular trade name fabric qualities. It is a fine. soft,plain weave fabric of a type known at the time as " radium". Pussy Willow was guranteed to be pure-dye and tub-fast, or washable without losing color. This is the "old ivory" (off white) sample, one of 6 solid color samples of Pussy Willow that coordinate with the print designs for the Playgrounds of the World series.
6 samples - Grey #124; green #906; beige #4889;(2 pieces); straw #6133; old ivory #10511
