A process sample length of H.R. Mallinson' & Co.'s trade name "Slendora Brocade" in the raw. Woven snakeskin pattern. Weft-figured Jacquard woven fabric as it comes from the loom. The allover snakeskin pattern is produced by a white rayon weft which stands out against the lusterless silk ground of greenish tint. This is a fugitive tint used for identification of yarn in the mill, to guard against a weaver accidentally mixing the silk and rayon yarns on the quill in the shuttle.. Manufacturer's numbers: fabric quality # 4019; pattern # 8529. Undyed and unfinished, no color #.
A length of MC Migel's Mexixe series, 1914. Taffeta silk: "Mexixe Pussy Willow". Pure dye printed taffeta, design "Mexican feathers".
The Mexixe series was publicized as the first time an American textile company had utilized American design inspiration without looking to Paris first. The line was inspired by the prominence of Mexico and the US southwest in the news because of the US war against Pancho Villa.
M.C. Migel & Co., which in 1915 became H.R. Mallinson & Co., Inc., was known for innovation in silk design and silk manufacturing technology.
A length of M. C. Migel & Co., Inc "Ad Hoc" printed "Pussy Willow" Taffeta Brocade. Pure-dye, piece dyed, satin brocade taffeta, over printed by "Ad Hoc " process; first example of use in the U.S.
"Ad Hoc" printing was defined as block-printing in colors on a jacquard woven ground. Warp float patterned jacquard woven silk ground with small floral pattern; over printed with floral spray design. This colorway has a dark blue ground with floral design in greens, pinks, reds, orange, yellow, lavender accents.
M.C. Migel & Co., which in 1915 became H.R. Mallinson & Co., Inc., was known for innovation in silk design and silk manufacturing technology.
H.R. Mallinson & Co. printed warp process sample. Section of printed silk warp, mounted on paper. Warp ends laid parallel to form a bank 13" wide upon which is printed an allover floral pattern. Given by H.R. Mallinson & Co. to illustrate the process of making a warp-printed silk. The characteristic 'water-color' or 'fuzzy' edges of a finished textile in which the design is printed on the warp threads before weaving is most prominent in plain woven fabrics. Another example donated by the company (T0567.A and .B) have plain woven bands with the printed warps extending below, to show the process more clearly.
H.R. Mallinson & Co. printed warp process sample. Section of printed silk warp, mounted on paper. Warp ends laid parallel to form a bank 15" wide upon which is printed a detached floral motif. Given by H.R. Mallinson & Co. to illustrate the process of making a warp-printed silk. The characteristic 'water-color' or 'fuzzy' edges of a finished textile in which the design is printed on the warp threads before weaving is most prominent in plain woven fabrics. Another example donated by the company (T0567.A and .B) have plain woven bands with the printed warps extending below, to show the process more clearly.
A length of Mallinson's trade name "Pussy Willow" silk fabric. Pussy Willow was one of the company's most enduring fabric qualities. It was described as a fine, soft "radium-like", plain weave fabric which is all silk and pure dye, not weighted. This example is printed with an allover scenic pattern "Catalina Islands" one of the H.R. Mallinson & Co. "Playgrounds of the World" series. Colorway: rose pink, red, lavender, yellow, grays, black on white. Company numbers: 1900/2665. Color #16.
Length of novelty pile fabric in pink overprinted with a plaid on the diagonal in brown and green. Weave structure similar to "Panoply" from this same donation. Artificial silk solid cut pile is clipped to give a diagonal or twill aeffect in the weave, Color "Camelia" 51" wide. Sample length not noted. One of a number of samples of pile fabrics given by Sidney Blumenthal & Co., Inc. owner and operator of The Shelton Looms, Shelton, CT, in 1921.
A sample length of Shelton Looms upholstery cut pile fabric, "Continental". This novelty upholstery velvet has very short dark red mohair pile in a very open weave so that the contrasting yellow ground shows through. Color: mulberry, 3002. Mfr # 148F. One of a group of fabric samples given by Sidney Blumenthal & Co., Inc, owner and operatorof the Shelton Looms. 52" width, sample length 36". White warp; yellow weft, dark red pile warp. Stencilled Mfrs. mark. Yellow twill tape machine stitched along one selvedge.
A length of Shelton Looms "Audubon" novelty pile fabric. A novelty plush with a long artificial silk cut pile, randomly tinted blue and golden yellow, and pressed in swirls to imitate bird plumage. According to the initial cataloging from the accession file, "The colors of this fabric were inspired by the feathers of the Callistel." One of a group of samples of novelty pile fabrics given by Sidney Blumenthal & Co., Inc., owner and operator of the Shelton Looms, Shelton, CT, in 1921. Width 51", sample length not noted. Mfr # 12254E
L.C. Chase & Company brand "Velmo" mohair pile upholstery fabric, "Byzantine", 1922. Fabric with close, short, solid cut mohair pile, with a cotton back. Pattern of vertical self-tone stripes in browns, linked by a narrow black stripe. Pattern # 42; color # 1808. Made at Sanford Mills, Sanford Maine; selling agents, L.C. Chase & Co. Width: 54"; Length 35.5"
L.C. Chase "Velmo" figured mohair pile upholstery fabric, "Lorenzo", 1922. Golden yellow cotton ground warp and weft, against which a renaissance design of foliage curving around an urn with paired griffins, in green is raised in two heights and densities of mohair pile. Pattern #203; Color: Sage, # 17046. 36" length x 50" width. Repeat length is 26", two repeats across the width. Manufactured by Sanford Mills, Sanford, Maine; selling agent L.C. Chase & Co.
A length of Shelton Looms "Pan Undulay" novelty pile fabric. Solid cut pile fabric with a very fine artificial silk pile pressed or embossed in a horizontal crinkle pattern which gives a rippled finish. Weave structure the same as "Panoply" from the same donation. Color: Caramel (golden brown) Mfr # 66205E. 51" width, no sample length given. One of a group of fabrics given by Sidney Blumenthal & Co., Inc. in 1921. Blumenthal owned and operated The Shelton Looms in Shelton CT, noted American pile fabric mill.
A length of Shelton Looms "Ronge Velvet" novelty pile fabric. Novelty pile weave "chiffon velvet" with black artificial silk cut pile of two lengths: a shorter sparsely woven background which allows the golden yellow ground weave to show through, and a longer, more densely woven patterning pile.Design of "idealized chrysanthemums" One of a number of novelty pile weave samples donated by Sidney Blumenthal & Co., Inc. owner and operator of The Shelton Looms, in Shelton, CT, in 1921. 43.5" wide, sample length not noted. Mfr # 18325 1/3
A length of Shelton Looms "Panoply" novelty solid cut pile fabric. A pile fabric with a very fine, short artificial silk pile, "with the feel of a heavy satin", the pile rows cut in such a way as to give a twill or diagonal effect. Color: larkspur (blue) Mfr #33404E. 52" width, no sample length noted. One of a group of fabrics given by Sidney Blumenthal & Co., Inc. in 1921. Blumenthal owned and operated The Shelton Looms in Shelton CT, noted American pile fabric mill.
A length of Shelton Looms "Chadwick" pile upholstery fabric. Fabric has a short cut pile of mohair in tan, printed with a large floral in six colors on a raisin-colored ground. Pattern meanders over the surface; 26" repeat length, filling the width. Mfr # 4642E; 64641E; color 3401. 36 1/2" L x 51 1/2" W. . One of a group of pile fabrics given by Sidney Blumenthal & Co., Inc. in 1921. Blumenthal owned and operated the Shelton Looms, in Shelton, CT, noted American manufacturer of pile fabrics
A length of H.R. Mallinson's "Slendora Brocade" in a cross-dyed green and copper-colored jacquard patterned snakeskin design. The cross-dyed (a form of resist-dyeing) "Slendora Brocade" was Jacquard woven in copper colored rayon for the weft figure; contrasting with the green silk ground. The two dyes are in the same bath, and each fiber resists the dye meant for the other fiber (green-silk; copper-rayon) for which it has no chemical affinity, thereby enabling a two color effect in one operation. The selvage inscription on this textile length (Mallinson's Fabrics De Luxe) is the one Mallinson used for its products that were not all-silk after an early 1920s 'truth-in-advertising' furor over silk manufacturers using rayon (then artificial silk) in their products without informing consumers.
A length of M C Migel & Co., Inc. "Ad Hoc" printed "Pussy Willow" Taffeta Brocade. Pure-dye, piece dyed, satin brocade taffeta, over printed by "Ad Hoc " process; first example of use in the U.S. "Ad Hoc" printing was defined as block-printing in colors on a jacquard woven ground.
"Ad Hoc" printed dress silk; plain weave with warp float floral jacquard patterning, over-printed with floral spray pattern. Gray-taupe ground, patterning in greens, blues, with pink accent.
One of four examples of the same design, 4 different colorways. T1445, T1446, T1447, T1448
M.C. Migel & Co., which in 1915 became H.R. Mallinson & Co., Inc., was known for innovation in silk design and silk manufacturing technology.
A length of M.C. Migel & Co., Inc. "Ad Hoc" printed "Pussy Willow" Taffeta Brocade. Pure-dye, piece dyed, satin brocade taffeta, over printed by "Ad Hoc " process; first example of use in the U.S. "Ad Hoc" printing was defined as block-printing in colors on a jacquard woven ground. Jacquard woven floral design on a taffeta ground with warp float patterning; over-printed with a rose stem design. 4 colorways of same design (T1449,T1450,T1451,T1452); this colorway with dark green ground, pattern in peach, red, browns, blue, yellow.
M.C. Migel & Co., which in 1915 became H.R. Mallinson & Co., Inc., was known for innovation in silk design and silk manufacturing technology.
