A length of M. C. Migel & Co., Inc. Mexixe series, 1914. Taffeta silk: "Mexixe Pussy Willow". Pure dye printed taffeta, design "Aztec -coat-of-arms"; A dark blue ground printed with individual scattered motif inspired by Aztec(?) figure with headdress. "Pussy Willow" quality plain weave. print colors yellow, med. brown, green, blue, and red, with black.. The Mexixe series was publicized as the first time an American textile company had utilized American design inspiration without looking to Paris first. The line was inspired by the prominence of Mexico and the US southwest in the news because of the US war against Pancho Villa.
M.C. Migel & Co., which in 1915 became H.R. Mallinson & Co., Inc., was known for innovation in silk design and silk manufacturing technology.
3 'books' of raw silk skeins; 2 large skeins in each book. Coarse, white; Reeled in Japan. Transfer from the US Dept. of Agriculture, sericulture display; Bureau of Entomology. July 9, 1912.
At various points in American history, from colonial times onward, people experimented with sericulture - meaning the raising of silkworms and reeling of silk filaments from silkworm cocoons. At first it was hoped that this silk could be shipped to Great Britain for use in its silk textile manufacturing industry. Experiments in the 1760s and after, into the early 20th century, hoped to raise enough silk to support an American silk textile industry. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, efforts in California and other (primarily) western states were supported by the U.S. Department of Agriculture with a display in the department's headquarters building in Washington, DC. The display also highlighted the imports of raw silk from Asia, Europe, and the Middle East that most manufacturers used in their products. The contents of the display were transferred to the (then) U.S. National Museum in 1912, for exhibition in the Textile Hall, as educational background for the exhibition of silk textiles manufactured in the US.
2 books (of 2 large skeins each, 4 skeins total) of raw silk. Coarse, white; Reeled in japan. Transfer from the US Dept. of Agriculture, Bureau of Entomology, display on sericulture; July 9, 1912.
At various points in American history, from colonial times onward, people experimented with sericulture - meaning the raising of silkworms and reeling of silk filaments from silkworm cocoons. At first it was hoped that this silk could be shipped to Great Britain for use in its silk textile manufacturing industry. Experiments in the 1760s and after, into the early 20th century, hoped to raise enough silk to support an American silk textile industry. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, efforts in California and other (primarily) western states were supported by the U.S. Department of Agriculture with a display in the department's headquarters building in Washington, DC. The display also highlighted the imports of raw silk from Asia, Europe, and the Middle East that most manufacturers used in their products. The contents of the display were transferred to the (then) U.S. National Museum in 1912, for exhibition in the Textile Hall, as educational background for the exhibition of silk textiles manufactured in the US.
A length of M. C. Migel & Co., Inc. Mexixe series, 1914. Taffeta silk: "Mexixe Pussy Willow". Pure dye. Design titlted "Mexican Moon: of swirling multi-color circles scattered over a gray-beige ground, the ground fabric is plain weave with a small satin weave cross check in black. Same design as T1982 on a different ground cloth. MC Migel Mexixe series, 1914. The Mexixe series was publicized as the first time an American textile company had utilized American design inspiration without looking to Paris first. The line was inspired by the prominence of Mexico and the US southwest in the news because of the US war against Pancho Villa.
M.C. Migel & Co., which in 1915 became H.R. Mallinson & Co., Inc., was known for innovation in silk design and silk manufacturing technology.
A length of M C Migel & Co., Inc. "Ad Hoc" printed "Pussy Willow" Taffeta Brocade. Pure-dye, piece dyed, satin brocade taffeta, over printed by "Ad Hoc " process; first example of use in the U.S. "Ad Hoc" printing was defined as block-printing in colors on a jacquard woven ground.
Warp float patterned taffeta ground; jacquard floral; over-printed with floral spray design. This colorway (one of four) has a bright blue ground with floral design in greens,pinks, red, yellow accent. T1445, T1446,T1447, T1448 colorways of the same design.
M.C. Migel & Co., which in 1915 became H.R. Mallinson & Co., Inc., was known for innovation in silk design and silk manufacturing technology.
A length of M. C. Migel & Co., Inc "Ad Hoc" printed "Pussy Willow" Taffeta Brocade. Pure-dye, piece dyed, satin brocade taffeta, over printed by "Ad Hoc " process; first example of use in the U.S.
Warp float patterned jacquard-woven dress silk over-printed with rose stem design. One of 4 colorways of the same design. This colorway has a very dark green (almost black) ground with the flowers in orange-red, red, browns, peach, blue, yellow. with pink accent. "Ad Hoc" printing was defined as over printing in colors on a jacquard woven ground. M.C. Migel & Co., which in 1915 became H.R. Mallinson & Co., Inc., was known for innovation in silk design and silk manufacturing technology.
A length of M. C. Migel & Co., Inc. Mexixe series, 1914. Taffeta silk: "Mexixe Pussy Willow". Pure dye printed taffeta, design "Mexican Cocheniel", inspired by Mexican textiles printed in medium blue, pink, green, black and white on a dark blue ground. Mexixe series, MC Migel. Printed on the Pussy Willow quality. Tossed, allover layout, non-directional; appears to be inspired by woven and embroidered bags and bands of cloth.. The Mexixe series was publicized as the first time an American textile company had utilized American design inspiration without looking to Paris first. The line was inspired by the prominence of Mexico and the US southwest in the news because of the US war against Pancho Villa.
M.C. Migel & Co., which in 1915 became H.R. Mallinson & Co., Inc., was known for innovation in silk design and silk manufacturing technology.
A length of M. C. Migel & Co., Inc. Mexixe series, 1914. Taffeta silk: "Mexixe Pussy Willow". Pure dye printed taffeta, design "Aztec armadillo and arrow". Dress silk with evenly space black satin weave stripes, printed with design of stylized animal and arrow feathers in red, orange, purple, teal, and black on a blue-green ground. The Mexixe series was publicized as the first time an American textile company had utilized American design inspiration without looking to Paris first. The line was inspired by the prominence of Mexico and the US southwest in the news because of the US war against Pancho Villa.
M.C. Migel & Co., which in 1915 became H.R. Mallinson & Co., Inc., was known for innovation in silk design and silk manufacturing technology.
A length of M.C. Migel & Co., Inc. Mexixe series.Taffeta silk: "Mexixe Pussy Willow". Pure dye printed taffeta, design "Mexican Moon" in rainbow tones on "Aztech blue" ground.
Printed dress silk with bright blue ground, design of swirling balls of color scattered overall, in blues, greens, red, orange, yellow, black, white. The Mexixe series was publicized as the first time an American textile company had utilized American design inspiration without looking to Paris first. The line was inspired by the prominence of Mexico and the US southwest in the news because of the US war against Pancho Villa.
M.C. Migel & Co., which in 1915 became H.R. Mallinson & Co., Inc., was known for innovation in silk design and silk manufacturing technology.
46 Skeins of American grown silk (yellow), reeled in Washington. Transferred from the sericulture display at the US Dept of Agriculture, Bureau of Entomology; July 9, 1912.
At various points in American history, from colonial times onward, people experimented with sericulture - meaning the raising of silkworms and reeling of silk filaments from silkworm cocoons. At first it was hoped that this silk could be shipped to Great Britain for use in its silk textile manufacturing industry. Experiments in the 1760s and after, into the early 20th century, hoped to raise enough silk to support an American silk textile industry. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, efforts in California and other (primarily) western states were supported by the U.S. Department of Agriculture with a display in the department's headquarters building in Washington, DC. The display also highlighted the imports of raw silk from Asia, Europe, and the Middle East that most manufacturers used in their products. The contents of the display were transferred to the (then) U.S. National Museum in 1912, for exhibition in the Textile Hall, as educational background for the exhibition of silk textiles manufactured in the US.
A length of H.R. Mallinson & Co. printed and voided chiffon velvet. Sheer gauze-like fabric of silk with a rayon pile figure. The fabric is woven as a solid velvet with rayon pile and silk base. Discharge medium that will remove only the rayon pile is applied by a printing cylinder engraved with the design. This removes pile not needed for pattern, leaving a sheer ground. Fabric is then overprinted in usual way. This design of seaweeds, printed in black and browns on a background design of bubbles and seaweed fronds in velvet pile against a yellow chiffon ground, may have been taken from an original sketch made by artist Helen Tee-Van on board the Steam Yacht Arcturus on the New York Zoological Society's 1925 Expedition under Capt. Wm. Beebe to the Sargasso Sea and the Galapagos Islands.
Cheney Bros. Velvet ribbon samples in hinged box; for display. Ribbon samples mounted on gold foil covered paper loop mounts within dark red covered hinged display box.
Man's 'de Joinville' style necktie; Gift of Cheney Brothers, Sept. 22 1921. Cotton and Silk; Woven in ribbon form (single layer, straight ends, straight sides). Jacquard figured cotton ground with a fancy blue silk stripe. Washable. Original number 136.
NB: 1920s terminology for men's neckwear was different than late 20th-21st century terminology. Scarf was correct for the period.
From Esquire's Menswear Encyclopedia: "The de Joinville style tie or scarf was strictly a straight-end model." The 1900 Sears, Roebuck and Company catalog described the Joinville as “the most popular and swellest gentleman’s scarf ever produced. These scarfs were 6 inches wide and 34 inches long, and are made from purest woven silk specially imported by us. We have an immense assortment, comprising more than three hundred different designs: all light and medium colorings in nearly every color and shade ever thought of. They consist mostly of combination colors, just a few of which are blue, lavender, light green, cherry, strawberry, olive, myrtle, moss green, turquoise, opal, red, etc., all combined with light contrasting shades of cream, white, bright sun-shiny yellow, pale blue and a host of other beautiful shades; handsome brocade patterns in Persian effects, Oriental effects, Dresden fancies, Chameleon grotesques, Roman novelties, Scotch and Highland checks, and an almost endless variety of artistic and fashionable designs. The De Joinville scarf is popular with fashionable gentlemen, because of its exclusiveness and because it can be tied into several different shapes”. Among the shapes were the Prince of Wales knot and the puff, with a finger ring sometimes slipped just below the knot for added elegance."
Man's de Joinville style necktie; Gift of Cheney Brothers, Sept. 22 1921. Cotton and Silk; Woven in ribbon form (single layer, straight ends, straight sides), with stripe pattern in blue and black; an extra warp produces allover white pin dots. Original number 2875.
NB: 1920s terminology for men's neckwear was different than late 20th-21st century terminology. Scarf was correct for the period.
From Esquire's Menswear Encyclopedia: "Tthe de Joinville style tie or scarf was strictly a straight-end model." The 1900 Sears, Roebuck and Company catalog described the Joinville as “the most popular and swellest gentleman’s scarf ever produced. These scarfs were 6 inches wide and 34 inches long, and are made from purest woven silk specially imported by us. We have an immense assortment, comprising more than three hundred different designs: all light and medium colorings in nearly every color and shade ever thought of. They consist mostly of combination colors, just a few of which are blue, lavender, light green, cherry, strawberry, olive, myrtle, moss green, turquoise, opal, red, etc., all combined with light contrasting shades of cream, white, bright sun-shiny yellow, pale blue and a host of other beautiful shades; handsome brocade patterns in Persian effects, Oriental effects, Dresden fancies, Chameleon grotesques, Roman novelties, Scotch and Highland checks, and an almost endless variety of artistic and fashionable designs. The De Joinville scarf is popular with fashionable gentlemen, because of its exclusiveness and because it can be tied into several different shapes”. Among the shapes were the Prince of Wales knot and the puff, with a finger ring sometimes slipped just below the knot for added elegance."
A fabric length with solid cut mohair pile of two lengths; the short pile which forms the background has more plain weft picks in between warp pile rows, this allows the contrasting color of the ground to show through, the longer pile, more densely woven, forms a large conventionalized ogival pattern with central pomegranate/floral medallion Repeat is 27" long; 2 repeats per width of fabric; 1/2 step repeat This structure is identical with a chiffon velour. Color: "mauve" (purplish-brown pile, yellow ground) #3504. Mfr #19318E. Sample length 37", width 52" One of a number of samples of pile fabrics given by Sidney Blumenthal & Co., Inc. owner and operator of The Shelton Looms, Shelton, CT, in 1921. Stencilled Mfrs. mark.
A length of a Shelton Looms solid cut pile upholstery fabric, titled "Panoply Mandarine": a very fine artificial silk short pile fabric with the same weave structure as "Panoply (TE*T04246) and the feel of a heavy satin; navy blue pile with an allover pigment-printed swirling pattern in gold metallic. Mfr # 31211E. 54" wide, no sample length noted. One of a number of samples of pile fabrics given by Sidney Blumenthal & Co., Inc. owner and operator of The Shelton Looms, Shelton, CT, in 1921.
A fabric length with silk or artificial silk cut pile of two lengths; the short pile which forms the background has more plain weft picks in between warp pile rows, this allows the contrasting color of the ground to show through. The longer pile, more densely woven, forms a conventionalized floral pattern with a 28" repeat. This structure is identical with a chiffon velour. Color: green (tan ground) #3706. Mfr # 51501E 36" L x 51 1/2" W. One of a number of samples of pile fabrics given by Sidney Blumenthal & Co., Inc. owner and operator of The Shelton Looms, Shelton, CT, in 1921. Stencilled Mfrs. mark.
A length of Shelton Looms "Glamorsheen" novelty pile fabric. A lightweight fabric similar to chiffon velvet with a very short artificial silk cut pile. The prismatic colors are printed on in shaded stripes made up of pin-like dots which produce a very large "invisible" plaid pattern. The surface of this fabric has been pressed flat, giving a metallic-like lustre. Width 52". No sample length noted. Mfr # 50402E 3/8; color 313. One of a group of pile fabrics giiven by Sidney Blumenthal & Co., Inc, owner and operator of The Shelton Looms, Shelton, CT, noted American pile fabric manufacturer.
L.C. Chase "Velmo" figured mohair pile upholstery fabric, ""Angelo", 1922. Ground is cotton with a yellow warp and red weft; mohair cut pile in two heights and densities creates a large scale floral/foliate pattern in a higher denser pile against a lower, sparser pile that allows the ground colors to show through. An additional effect is a stripe or strie in the pile , which has regular brown and silvery gray striping. The pattern # is 213; Color is given as Taupe, 3137-20-A. Part of the Chase trademark stencil appears on the back of this sample. 36.5" length x 50" width. Manufactured by Sanford Mills, Sanford, Maine; selling agent L.C. Chase & Co.
L.C. Chase "Velmo" printed cut and uncut mohair pile upholstery fabric, "Maintenon"; 1922. A cotton-backed, mohair pile fabric with cut and uncut pile alternating to produce broken horizontal stripes. Pattern # T-50; over printed design of a floral motif against a landscape, forming a complete repeat within a 28" square. The ground color shades from dark at the bottom (ground) to light at the top (sky). Tan, blue, green, rose pink, brown, black. Made by Sanford Mills in Maine, selling agent L.C. Chase.
