Sample of silk chiffon in the gum; National Silk Dyeing Co., 1915. All silk chiffon, sheer, open mesh fabric, woven in the gum, as it comes from the loom. Part of a donation of 63 samples representing the processes of silk skein-dyeing, and silk piece-dyeing and printing, given by the National Silk Dyeing Co of Paterson, New Jersey, in 1915. National Silk Dyeing Co., headquartered at 140 Market St., Paterson, NJ was formed from five silk dyeing firms in Peterson, NJ (Auger & Simon Silk Dyeing Company; Emil Geering Silk Dyeing Co., Knipscher & Maas Silk Dyeing Company, Kearns Brothers, and Gaede Silk Dyeing Co.) and a fifth company from Allentown, Pa. (Lotte Brothers under the leadership of Charles I. Auger. National Silk Dyeing immediately became one of the large silk dyeing conglomerates in the nation. It operated into the Great Depression but was eventually broken up and sold off.
Sample of silk crepe meteor in the gum; National Silk Dyeing Co., 1915. Silk fabric woven in the gum, as it comes from the loom. Part of a donation of 63 samples representing the processes of silk skein-dyeing, and silk piece-dyeing and printing, given by the National Silk Dyeing Co of Paterson, New Jersey, in 1915. National Silk Dyeing Co., headquartered at 140 Market St., Paterson, NJ was formed from five silk dyeing firms in Peterson, NJ (Auger & Simon Silk Dyeing Company; Emil Geering Silk Dyeing Co., Knipscher & Maas Silk Dyeing Company, Kearns Brothers, and Gaede Silk Dyeing Co.) and a fifth company from Allentown, Pa. (Lotte Brothers under the leadership of Charles I. Auger. National Silk Dyeing immediately became one of the large silk dyeing conglomerates in the nation. It operated into the Great Depression but was eventually broken up and sold off.
Swatch of machine made lace trim. White, open circles. Pinned paper label, marked "26 tt".
Lace is an openwork fabric, used for trimming outer and under clothing for women and girls - and until the 19th century, men, baby clothes, hats, fans, parasols, and many decorative items, was at first a hand-made product. By the early 19th century, machine made nets allowed for new forms of lace, and modifications to those machines led eventually to the Leavers lace machine, with patterning capabilities controlled by a Jacquard mechanism. Lace became less expensive, much quicker to make, and much more available across a broad range of economic and social classes. In the US Tariff Bill of 1909, the import duty on Leavers machines, most of which were made in Nottingham, England, home of a great lace industry, was removed for a window of about 17 months. American entrepreneurs imported hundreds of these machines (and often the workers to operate them) and established a few centers of American lace manufacturing. U.S. Consuls sent samples of European made Leavers lace, such as these in the NMAH Consular Collection, to illustrate the quality and range of designs available from the long established manufacturers in France, Germany, Switzerland, and the UK.
Swatch of white machine made lace edging trim. Bell-shaped flower design.
Lace is an openwork fabric, used for trimming outer and under clothing for women and girls - and until the 19th century, men, baby clothes, hats, fans, parasols, and many decorative items, was at first a hand-made product. By the early 19th century, machine made nets allowed for new forms of lace, and modifications to those machines led eventually to the Leavers lace machine, with patterning capabilities controlled by a Jacquard mechanism. Lace became less expensive, much quicker to make, and much more available across a broad range of economic and social classes. In the US Tariff Bill of 1909, the import duty on Leavers machines, most of which were made in Nottingham, England, home of a great lace industry, was removed for a window of about 17 months. American entrepreneurs imported hundreds of these machines (and often the workers to operate them) and established a few centers of American lace manufacturing. U.S. Consuls sent samples of European made Leavers lace, such as these in the NMAH Consular Collection, to illustrate the quality and range of designs available from the long established manufacturers in France, Germany, Switzerland, and the UK.
Swatch of trim, brownish, with a diamond and flower pattern.
Lace is an openwork fabric, used for trimming outer and under clothing for women and girls - and until the 19th century, men, baby clothes, hats, fans, parasols, and many decorative items, was at first a hand-made product. By the early 19th century, machine made nets allowed for new forms of lace, and modifications to those machines led eventually to the Leavers lace machine, with patterning capabilities controlled by a Jacquard mechanism. Lace became less expensive, much quicker to make, and much more available across a broad range of economic and social classes. In the US Tariff Bill of 1909, the import duty on Leavers machines, most of which were made in Nottingham, England, home of a great lace industry, was removed for a window of about 17 months. American entrepreneurs imported hundreds of these machines (and often the workers to operate them) and established a few centers of American lace manufacturing. U.S. Consuls sent samples of European made Leavers lace, such as these in the NMAH Consular Collection, to illustrate the quality and range of designs available from the long established manufacturers in France, Germany, Switzerland, and the UK.
Black embroidered dots on white netting. Blue & white original glued paper label."J. Bourre & Fils (/) St. Pierre-les-Calais. (/) 636 (/) Prix 90 (/) Large om 23 (/) No 637 (/) Prix 1.10 (/)."
Lace is an openwork fabric, used for trimming outer and under clothing for women and girls - and until the 19th century, men, baby clothes, hats, fans, parasols, and many decorative items, was at first a hand-made product. By the early 19th century, machine made nets allowed for new forms of lace, and modifications to those machines led eventually to the Leavers lace machine, with patterning capabilities controlled by a Jacquard mechanism. Lace became less expensive, much quicker to make, and much more available across a broad range of economic and social classes. In the US Tariff Bill of 1909, the import duty on Leavers machines, most of which were made in Nottingham, England, home of a great lace industry, was removed for a window of about 17 months. American entrepreneurs imported hundreds of these machines (and often the workers to operate them) and established a few centers of American lace manufacturing. U.S. Consuls sent samples of European made Leavers lace, such as these in the NMAH Consular Collection, to illustrate the quality and range of designs available from the long established manufacturers in France, Germany, Switzerland, and the UK.
Two samples of curled mohair fiber, of the kind used as the pile yarn in weaving imitation fur products, dress goods, and cloakings. One yarn skein (2 ply) and one sample (singles) of yarn wrapped on a black board. Natural color. Given by Massachusetts Mohair Plush Company, headquartered in Boston with a mill in Lowell, Massachusetts, in 1914, along with samples of mohair fiber in various stages of processing, and samples of the company's finished textiles.
Five wooden rods with silkworm cocoons; Cheney Brothers, 1913. First draft cocoons. Silk. On wooden rods (5 rods, 31-1/2 in. L) Part of gift illustrating all the steps in making silk textiles at the Cheney Brothers mill in South Manchester, CT. Sales offices: 4th Ave. and 18th St., New York City
Sample of Single Mohair Yarn, Massachusetts Mohair Plush Company, 1914. One bobbin. Single yarn, natural color. Used for weaving imitation fur goods, dress goods, and cloakings. Given by Massachusetts Mohair Plush Company, headquartered in Boston with a mill in Lowell, Massachusetts, in 1914, along with samples of mohair fiber in various stages of processing, and samples of the company's finished textiles.
Sample of 6 dram mohair roving, Massachusetts Mohair Plush Company, 1914. One bobbin. A step in the manufacture of mohair yarn from combed fiber. Given by Massachusetts Mohair Plush Company, headquartered in Boston with a mill in Lowell, Massachusetts, in 1914, along with samples of mohair fiber in various stages of processing, and samples of the company's finished textiles.
Sample of 20 dram Mohair roving, Massachusetts Mohair Plush Company, 1914. One bobbin. A step in the manufacture of mohair yarn from combed fiber. Given by Massachusetts Mohair Plush Company, headquartered in Boston with a mill in Lowell, Massachusetts, in 1914, along with samples of mohair fiber in various stages of processing, and samples of the company's finished textiles.
Cheney Brothers printed novelty modernist design silk fabric sample cut. A soft and drapey plain weave fabric. Print is an all over conventionalized 'Egyptian' geometric arc pattern in tan, red, green, lavender, and purple. Sample has significant fading, portions of the lavender areas are pink. Mfr.# 55895. Small sample cut, 7" L x 33" W; Full selvage width length of same pattern, (W. 40 in., L. 36 in.) also in collection (.00A).
Photograph - Gathering mulberry leaves for the silkworms - Japan. Keystone View Co. for Cheney Brothers. Male workers in field of low-growing mulberry trees, harvesting branches of leaves. One of 46 photographic reproductions of views illustrating sericulture in Japan and silk manufacture in the Cheney Brothers factory in South Manchester, Connecticut. Donated by Cheney Brothers in 1915 for use in the National Museum's Textile Hall. With caption, 12" x 10".
Photograph -"Picking special mulberry leaves for infant silkworms - Japan"; Photograph, Cheney Brothers, 1915. Keystone Views. Women and child picking leaves into baskets in a field of short trees. One of 46 photographic reproductions of views illustrating sericulture in Japan and silk manufacture in the Cheney Brothers factory in South Manchester, Connecticut. Donated by Cheney Brothers in 1915 for use in the National Museum's Textile Hall. With caption, 12" x 10".
A length of HR Mallinson's Pussy Willow (trade name) silk--all silk radium like plain weave fabric, quality #5459-D, as it comes from the loom, woven in the gum, natural color. This textile length is a process sample for Pussy Willow, Mallinson's premier selling silk quality, as it came from the loom, before it was washed, dyed, printed, or otherwise finished. It is the natural color of the silk, which was, in the language of the trade, "woven in the gum," meaning that sericin, the natural substance secreted by the silkworm along the silk filament that helped bind the cocoon together, had not been completely removed from the silk yarns before weaving began. This was common practice, as the sericin helped protect the silk yarns from abrasion during the weaving process. Company # 5459-D. This sample is from a group of six donated by the company to illustrate the discharge-printing process.
Four swatches of machine made lace edgings and borders. Pinned together. Brown. Diamond designs.
Lace is an openwork fabric, used for trimming outer and under clothing for women and girls - and until the 19th century, men, baby clothes, hats, fans, parasols, and many decorative items, was at first a hand-made product. By the early 19th century, machine made nets allowed for new forms of lace, and modifications to those machines led eventually to the Leavers lace machine, with patterning capabilities controlled by a Jacquard mechanism. Lace became less expensive, much quicker to make, and much more available across a broad range of economic and social classes. In the US Tariff Bill of 1909, the import duty on Leavers machines, most of which were made in Nottingham, England, home of a great lace industry, was removed for a window of about 17 months. American entrepreneurs imported hundreds of these machines (and often the workers to operate them) and established a few centers of American lace manufacturing. U.S. Consuls sent samples of European made Leavers lace, such as these in the NMAH Consular Collection, to illustrate the quality and range of designs available from the long established manufacturers in France, Germany, Switzerland, and the UK.
Two swatches of machine made lace border trim. White, mountain peak and hanging flower design. Pinned together.
Lace is an openwork fabric, used for trimming outer and under clothing for women and girls - and until the 19th century, men, baby clothes, hats, fans, parasols, and many decorative items, was at first a hand-made product. By the early 19th century, machine made nets allowed for new forms of lace, and modifications to those machines led eventually to the Leavers lace machine, with patterning capabilities controlled by a Jacquard mechanism. Lace became less expensive, much quicker to make, and much more available across a broad range of economic and social classes. In the US Tariff Bill of 1909, the import duty on Leavers machines, most of which were made in Nottingham, England, home of a great lace industry, was removed for a window of about 17 months. American entrepreneurs imported hundreds of these machines (and often the workers to operate them) and established a few centers of American lace manufacturing. U.S. Consuls sent samples of European made Leavers lace, such as these in the NMAH Consular Collection, to illustrate the quality and range of designs available from the long established manufacturers in France, Germany, Switzerland, and the UK.
Six pieces of French lace trim; pinned together. Light green, circles, floral patterns. Pinned paper label, marked on label: " French lace (/) New Orleans (/) Exposition (/) 1885 (/) St Pierre les Calias (/) France".
Lace is an openwork fabric, used for trimming outer and under clothing for women and girls - and until the 19th century, men, baby clothes, hats, fans, parasols, and many decorative items, was at first a hand-made product. By the early 19th century, machine made nets allowed for new forms of lace, and modifications to those machines led eventually to the Leavers lace machine, with patterning capabilities controlled by a Jacquard mechanism. Lace became less expensive, much quicker to make, and much more available across a broad range of economic and social classes. In the US Tariff Bill of 1909, the import duty on Leavers machines, most of which were made in Nottingham, England, home of a great lace industry, was removed for a window of about 17 months. American entrepreneurs imported hundreds of these machines (and often the workers to operate them) and established a few centers of American lace manufacturing. U.S. Consuls sent samples of European made Leavers lace, such as these in the NMAH Consular Collection, to illustrate the quality and range of designs available from the long established manufacturers in France, Germany, Switzerland, and the UK.
Three samples of silk messaline satin dress goods; National Silk Dyeing Co., 1915. Messaline satin is a light-weight, closely woven, 5 shaft satin. Three samples, in gold, blue, and changeable red-green. 36" width.
Part of a donation of 63 samples representing the processes of silk skein-dyeing, and silk piece-dyeing and printing, given by the National Silk Dyeing Co of Paterson, New Jersey, in 1915. National Silk Dyeing Co., headquartered at 140 Market St., Paterson, NJ was formed from five silk dyeing firms in Peterson, NJ (Auger & Simon Silk Dyeing Company; Emil Geering Silk Dyeing Co., Knipscher & Maas Silk Dyeing Company, Kearns Brothers, and Gaede Silky Dyeing Co.) and a fifth company from Allentown, Pa. (Lotte Brothers under the leadership of Charles I. Auger. National Silk Dyeing immediately became one of the large silk dyeing conglomerates in the nation. It operated into the Great Depression but was eventually broken up and sold off.
Sample of cotton and silk mull in the raw; National Silk Dyeing Co., 1915. Cotton and silk mull, a thin, plain weave fabric with a cotton warp and silk weft, woven in the raw, as it comes from the loom. Part of a donation of 63 samples representing the processes of silk skein-dyeing, and silk piece-dyeing and printing, given by the National Silk Dyeing Co of Paterson, New Jersey, in 1915. National Silk Dyeing Co., headquartered at 140 Market St., Paterson, NJ was formed from five silk dyeing firms in Peterson, NJ (Auger & Simon Silk Dyeing Company; Emil Geering Silk Dyeing Co., Knipscher & Maas Silk Dyeing Company, Kearns Brothers, and Gaede Silk Dyeing Co.) and a fifth company from Allentown, Pa. (Lotte Brothers under the leadership of Charles I. Auger. National Silk Dyeing immediately became one of the large silk dyeing conglomerates in the nation. It operated into the Great Depression but was eventually broken up and sold off.
