FOOD: Transforming the American Table

Dine and Learn

The restaurants and food stores opened by migrant entrepreneurs provided opportunities for consumers to learn about and delight in a wide variety of ingredients and dishes. They helped expand eaters’ palates and foster deeper understanding of diverse culinary techniques and traditions while also tantalizing their taste buds.

You have to link the culture to your food and then you’ll open up the world.

—Paul Ma

Paul Ma emigrated from China to the United States around 1964. After pursuing a career as a medical statistician, he opened a Chinese grocery store in New York. His natural ability to connect with customers led him to open a Chinese restaurant, where guests learned about the food while they ate. His “Dine and Learn” events introduced the public to traditional and new Chinese food, history, and culture.

Cooking class with Paul Ma, 1988

Cooking class with Paul Ma, 1988

Courtesy of Paul Ma Papers, Archives Center, National Museum of American History

From the late 1970s to the mid-1980s, the Dine and Learn classes at Paul Ma’s China Kitchen, outside of New York City, introduced hundreds of diners to regional Chinese cooking and culture.

Cleaver, late 1970s

Gift of Paul and Linda Ma

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Tea pot, early 1980s

Gift of Paul and Linda Ma

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Serving platter, early 1980s

Gift of Paul and Linda Ma

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Dinner plate, early 1980s

Gift of Paul and Linda Ma

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Guest book, late 1970s

Guest book, late 1970s

Gift of Paul and Linda Ma

Silk screen, 1980

Gift of Paul and Linda Ma

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Dine and Learn pamphlet, 1980s

Dine and Learn pamphlet, 1980s

Courtesy of Paul Ma Papers, Archives Center, National Museum of American History

Chinese New Year lantern, 1980s

Chinese New Year lantern, 1980s

Gift of Paul and Linda Ma

Tim Ma, Paul Ma’s nephew, is a chef and restaurateur in Washington, D.C. Tim’s early experiences with food date back to his childhood surrounded by the bustling activity of the Ma family’s restaurants. Tim draws inspiration from his Chinese heritage along with his French culinary training and fuses the two creatively in his cooking.

Paul Ma and Tim Ma at the Smithsonian’s third annual Food History Weekend, 2017

Paul Ma and Tim Ma at the Smithsonian’s third annual Food History Weekend, 2017

I think of myself as a culinary ambassador.

—Sileshi Alifom

Sileshi Alifom immigrated to Washington, D.C., in 1970 and eventually opened his restaurant, DAS Ethiopian. Inspired by his first career in the hotel service industry, he adopted an international look and feel in his restaurant, in hopes of making it welcoming to global clientele.

Sileshi Alifom at DAS Ethiopian, 2018

Sileshi Alifom at DAS Ethiopian, 2018

Courtesy of Kate Warren

Ethiopian coffee set, 1980s

Gift of Sileshi Alifom and Elizabeth Wossen

Sileshi Alifom used this coffee set to host traditional Ethiopian coffee ceremonies at his restaurant DAS Ethiopian. Guests joined him for the roasting and brewing of coffee, and conversation. Amidst the aromas of roasting beans and burning incense, he introduced guests to Ethiopian culture while encouraging new friendships.

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Dinner plate, 2017

Gift of Sileshi Alifom and Elizabeth Wossen

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Food at home was also a reflection of my fused reality: we ate tamales for special occasions . . . and Carolina hot dogs every chance we got.

—Sandra Gutierrez

Sandra Gutierrez was born in the United States, grew up in Guatemala, migrated back to the United States as an adult, and settled in North Carolina. There she learned regional Southern food traditions from her neighbors and in turn taught them about diverse Latin cuisines. In demonstrations, classes, and lectures, she teaches others about the joys of combining two different traditions of cooking.

Sandra Gutierrez teaching a cooking class in her North Carolina home, 2005

Sandra Gutierrez teaching a cooking class in her North Carolina home, 2005

Courtesy of Sandra Gutierrez

Sandra Gutierrez brought these ceramic dishes, metal comal, skillet, and butterfly napkin ring from Guatemala and used them with the Jell-O mold and biscuit cutter—essential tools for any Southern kitchen—in her cooking classes where she fuses Latin and Southern food traditions. 

Ceramic spice container, 1977

Gift of Sandra Gutierrez

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Ceramic serving dish, around 1960

Gift of Sandra Gutierrez

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Ceramic butterfly napkin ring, around 1985

Gift of Sandra Gutierrez

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Metal comal, around 1970

Gift of Sandra Gutierrez

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Biscuit cutter, 1980

Gift of Sandra Gutierrez

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Glass Jell-O mold, around 1960

Gift of Sandra Gutierrez

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