Other Manufacturers
The success of the Waltham system spawned a raft of competitors who began to produce movements and watches by the millions. It also inspired the Swiss, who had dominated the global watch market, to adopt American methods of manufacturing. By 1880, the United States exported more watches than it imported.

Watch, about 1869; marked "B. W. Raymond"; by Elgin National Watch Co., Elgin, Illinois; used on the Pennsylvania Railroad		Watch, about 1880; by Benedict & Burnham Mfg. Co. (now Timex Corp.), Waterbury, Connecticut Gift of New York University, James Arthur Collection
Watch movement, about 1869; by Newark Watch Co., Newark, New Jersey Gift of New York University, James Arthur Collection		Watch movement, 1860s; by E. Howard & Co., Boston Gift of New York University, James Arthur Collection
Watch movement, about 1881; marked "New Era"; by Lancaster Watch Co., Lancaster, Pennsylvania Lent by Frederick Leach		Advertisement, 1889; for the Waterbury Watch Co. Courtesy of NMAH Archives Center, Warshaw Collection of Business Americana

Wearing Watches
Men often wore their watches—with a chain, ribbon, or cord and a fob charm—tucked in their vest pockets. Some women wore their watches on a long neck chain pinned at the waist or tucked into a waistband or waist pocket. Others preferred to fasten their watches to a brooch. However worn, watches were now standard clothing accessories.

Man's watch, fob charm, and ribbon, 1840s; worn by Hezekiah Hargrove, Nelson County, Virginia Gift of Marion C. Hargrove		Man's hair watch cord with fob charm, about 1875; made from Clarissa Scafers's hair and worn by her husband Preston, Maryville, Missouri. Gift of Dr. R. L. Curfman in memory of Lula E. Welborn		Woman's watch with neck chain, about 1850; Swiss, marked "Arnold Adams & Co, London"; once owned by suffragist Susan B. Anthony
Woman's brooch watch, 1855; Swiss, marked "Patek Philippe"; gift to Mrs. John Henry Kinkead from her husband Gift of Bessie J. Kibbey Estate		Woman's brooch watch, 1870; Swiss; a gift to Mrs. Julian James, New York City, from Mrs. T. Robin, Paris Gift of Mrs. Julian James		Woman's chatelaine with watch, coin box, perfume bottle, and notepad, 1870–1885 Gift of Mrs. Arthur Doig

Watch Styles
By the middle of the 19th century, watches were smaller and thinner, with different sizes available for men and women. Open-faced cases—that reduced the amount of time required to check the time—became more popular than "hunting" cases with covered dials that had to be opened. Stem-winding and stem-setting watches replaced those wound and set with a separate key. In fact, "stem-winder" became a popular term for describing someone or something excellent.

Woman's watch with hunting case, 1875; by Elgin National Watch Co., Elgin, Illinois Gift of George W. Spier		Woman's watch with hunting case, 1875; by Elgin National Watch Co., Elgin, Illinois Gift of George W. Spier
Man's watch with open-faced case, 1876; by Rockford Watch Co., Rockford, Illinois Gift of A. E. Edmonds		Watch with key wind and set, about 1865; by Tremont Watch Co., Boston Gift of George W. Spier
Watch with stem wind and lever set, 1867; by American Watch Co., Waltham, Massachusetts Gift of W. Carl Wyatt Estate, through Mary Wyatt Tupman		Patent model of a watch stem-winding device patented by Arthur Wadsworth on June 19, 1866 Transfer from U.S. Patent Office
Watch with stem wind and set, 1876; by E. Howard & Co., Boston Gift of New York University, James Arthur Collection